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Thread: 19T + e85 too much for stock bottom?

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    That's great man, but my garage never gets below freezing and really if it is 35 or something like that the stealth is staying home because there is probably salt on the road. I also hate to break it to you, but your "feels like temp" is the windchill. I don't think the car cares about the windchill roflamo.

    It is 30 degrees here FYI and about 50 in my insulated garage.

    Threads like these are what drive me to think two or three times before posting. You can't offer any sort of advice to anyone without an army of naysayers. Run whatever oil you want. I'm not sure what the big issue is anyway, it comes in 10w30, run that in the winter. Is it that hard?
    Correct. Windchill is the equivalent static air temperature's effect on HUMAN SKIN. Your car doesn't care what the windchill is.

    Heat Transfer! Science!

  2. #52
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    Speaking of weather, who else wants to move south after surviving this record-breaking cold?


  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoopKill View Post
    Yes what was the huh for? This is exactly what I was saying. My reply was to his assertion that at lower temps the oil is thick as hell.
    Must have read it wrong. Thought you were insinuating 20w-50 was an industry standard winter blend. Appologies.

    Jeff

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    Threads like these are what drive me to think two or three times before posting. You can't offer any sort of advice to anyone without an army of naysayers. Run whatever oil you want. I'm not sure what the big issue is anyway, it comes in 10w30, run that in the winter. Is it that hard?
    Unless your car is a genuine, certified "race car" don't you dare run that high zinc 10w30 unless you want your bearings to instantly die, your turbos seize, babies to cry, and angels to lose their wings!!!

    Just ignore the fact that turbo manufacturers like FP recommend high zddp oils and "gasp" 20w50, those bastards!!....I'll leave this here but take it with a grain of salt since they are probably misleading customers so they burn up bearings and turbos. More turbos for them to sell. They wouldn't legitimately suggest 20w50 high zddp oils to their non "because racecar" customers, would they? http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
    Last edited by familyMAN; 02-08-2014 at 08:21 PM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Fast View Post
    "Alright, let's all calm down and have a rational conversation"

    Blah Blah BLAH worthless Blabber cuz see below

    "Pour point for the VR-1 is down to -11F
    Pour point for 5w-30 is -40F"
    J I really think you have great things to offer up to learn from, but once again you fly off the planet with a bunch of bullshit gibberish comparing apple to horse piss. Your evidence of twice the thickness of oil is due to well, IT FUCKING IS! 5w vs 20w, you win, your are correct, but no one was stating anything about 5w vs 20w.

    All of us don't live in the clouds where it's -** half the year. That Rocky Mountain High must be too much for you.

    I will leave this alone from here out...

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
    CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
    "Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" . .

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    I almost forgot about this thread. The motor and trans are already connected to my hoist and leveler for removal today.

    For your entertainment from last night:

    Shotgun blast!


    The carnage continues!
    3/S Street Tuner San Diego's Panda VR-4 v.3 w/ 38psi (peak) on E85+Meth | 3094 lbs as of 7/2/19

    '92 VR-4 - Fully built, AEM EMS S2, MHI EVO3 16G's, suspension, and corner balancing | '10 EVO X SE | '04 EVO VIII SSL
    4/1/21 - "retuned" est. 570AWHP VD SAE (580 U/C | second gear | 88°F) holding ~30psi (more boost & less timing still... hehe)
    On the side (v.4): IPS single turbo kit w/ GReddy 70mm, BC 3.4 billet stroker crank, BC gears, Italo billet oil pump gears, etc.

    "There are no secrets better kept than the secrets that everybody guesses."

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    OUCH! My eyes teared a little.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bboyalan View Post
    I almost forgot about this thread. The motor and trans are already connected to my hoist and leveler for removal today.

    For your entertainment from last night:

    Shotgun blast!


    The carnage continues!
    Just put a little JBWeld on that man, it'll be good to go.

    Although in all seriousness, reading this thread, plus a few others details it, has me deciding against going up to 19Ts/650/750 until I can forge the bottom end..So if it makes you feel any better, you have likely helped prevent someone else from ending up in the same situation.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

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    Looks like you did a thorough job there!

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    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    Unless your car is a genuine, certified "race car" don't you dare run that high zinc 10w30 unless you want your bearings to instantly die, your turbos seize, babies to cry, and angels to lose their wings!!!

    Just ignore the fact that turbo manufacturers like FP recommend high zddp oils and "gasp" 20w50, those bastards!!....I'll leave this here but take it with a grain of salt since they are probably misleading customers so they burn up bearings and turbos. More turbos for them to sell. They wouldn't legitimately suggest 20w50 high zddp oils to their non "because racecar" customers, would they? http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
    Ray P has me use 20w50 high zinc in my stage two 3.1L block....I don't think he's out to screw anybody over....just saying.

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