JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

[Toni]

Started looking at clutch adjustment. I can push the slave pin in just enough to clear the fork, not sure it it should go further. Have to set the lock nut in the car and play with it.

You can just push the shift fork to see how much it will move in. If the bleeder valve gets shut, you won't be able to push it at all. This does in fact work on our cars. I went through it in the other thread and tuned my system for max throw possible without disabling that valve. You can have someone push the clutch in to see how much "pedal free play" you have. Really this is just a way for a person to ensure that the valve is not shut. It does not confirm that you have the max throw possible, aka, maximum amount of fluid being pushed to the slave cylinder.

In my system, I could back out the adjustment rod all the way and still push in the slave which led me to believe I could adjust the vacuum rod further, which was true.

You can do a few things to gain more throw

Fix leaking master/slave/lines
Install stainless hose
replace bent/worn fork
replace worn fork pivot ball
shim the pivot ball
Adjust pedal rod up until the check valve closes. You also want some clevis pedal free play to ensure by adjusting the rod it's not pushing on the master.
Adjust the vacuum->master rod. Adjust too much and you can close the valve permanently

I plan to make a thread will all the gory detail with pics, videos, and diagrams but haven't had a chance to. I also want to get some detail together to see how much distance the slave should even move and also the angle of the shift fork for those to figure out if theirs is bent etc.

[Jimvr4]

Well, a minor setback was had. While testing the clutch engagement I had the car up on four jackstands and when I put it into gear I found the driver side front wheel was not turning. Torque is going to the passenger side wheel instead. I can spin the driver wheel and get it going but the bearing obviously has resistance and needs to be replaced.

Do you guys think these would be acceptable replacements? 3000gt Lancer EVO w AWD Front Wheel Hub Bearing Pair Assembly Set | eBay

Also replacements will need bolts where the originals had studs and nuts. Does anyone know the bolt pitch and length? I assume it's M12. I guess I could go measure what length would work without hitting the wheel stud disc. Would 8.8 be strong enough for this?

[NOMIEZVR4]

I don't think you need to replace the bearing. The driver axle naturally has more resistance because of the intermediate shaft..if its seized and has a LOT of resistance then yea, otherwise its OK.

[Jimvr4]

Nah, I've done this before. The ABS is tripping a code too because the wheel speed sensor is not registering. Definitely a bad bearing. I took the hub out and it barely turns.

Maybe I'll pony up the extra and go through Cherry Hill. They want about $90 for each. I measured the hub / knuckle thickness and it looks like an M12 50mm long is needed. I *think* the pitch is 1.0. It's the same thread as the caliper bolt and the hub stud/nut. It's definitely finer pitch than the 1.25 wheel studs.

[Jimvr4]

I went ahead and ordered up from Cherry Hill. $90 each and that includes the four bolts for the knuckle side. Mike's also doing same day shipping.

[J-Groove]

She is getting really close Jim!

I swear, your pictures are like car porn!

-John

[Jimvr4]

She is getting really close Jim!

I swear, your pictures are like car porn!

-John

Thanks John. I am sitting in front of my laptop right now trying to sort out the flashing process. I MUST get this car smogged today to meet the registration deadline.

[Jimvr4]

Well, can't catch a break right now after staying home yesterday to work on the car. Smog didn't happen since the car doesn't run right with an idler pulley that is seizing up. I ordered a new one from Ninja on Tuesday and should have been here by now but USPS decided to send it to Anchorage

I did manage to flash the ECU but it bothered me that I couldn't interpret the ROM that shipped on the unit, all I could do was save it. I flashed the 560 injector size and latencies. Another thing that bothers me is the Chome ECU FAQ section refers to a page for the injector latencies that doesn't even HAVE a listing for the 560s. I found them by googling and landed on the Evolution forums so I figure that should be a trusted source and it was confirmed here in another thread. I did a flash and then a compare and all was fine but it took long enough to make you worry. I had a battery charger hooked up at 13V the whole time.

I tried adjusting the clutch rod in toward the cabin, never found the point where the clutch fork wouldn't move and when started never could get the car out of neutral.

The only good thing to happen was I ordered new hub/bearing assemblies and Mike from Cherry Hill got them in my hands today! Great service from him!

[sergechronos]

I did manage to flash the ECU but it bothered me that I couldn't interpret the ROM that shipped on the unit, all I could do was save it. I flashed the 560 injector size and latencies. Another thing that bothers me is the Chome ECU FAQ section refers to a page for the injector latencies that doesn't even HAVE a listing for the 560s. I found them by googling and landed on the Evolution forums so I figure that should be a trusted source and it was confirmed here in another thread. I did a flash and then a compare and all was fine but it took long enough to make you worry. I had a battery charger hooked up at 13V the whole time.

I've found a few different sets of numbers of latencies. They're fairly close though so it shouldn't be a huge difference, you could always try them and see if it gets better or worse.

[Jimvr4]

After 8 months, at least 5 lbs of dirt and rock, and a complete engine and subframe rebuild, the Spyder finally saw the light of day and got a BATH lol. She really needed it too! I even jacked up the front end and sprayed the dirt off the undercarriage. She's back in the garage tonight waiting for new pulleys to get rid of the nasty metal / metal squeal that's coming from them now. I put in new wheel hubs/bearings but the driver side caliper is sticking, possibly because of a warped rotor. I rebuilt the calipers after powder coating and some of the pistons are a little pitted. The rotors were turned once before all the trouble so there isn't enough material do turn them again. I'm still nervous as hell every time I turn the key to start her up.

I'm really pissed that USPS routed my idler pulley to Anchorage. I'm probably going to order another directly from Cherry Hill and have it overnighted. When the one from Anchorage finally gets here it's getting returned.