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Thread: JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

  1. #431
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    Arghhhhh! Sorry man!

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
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    I'm sorry Jim.

    Hopefully is just the rear drain line. Those are always a pain.

    -John

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    It's the rear VC. Hopefully the gasket isn't damaged. Should have removed all those brackets before trying to seal it the first time. Turbo isn't even wet. Feed and return are sealed tight and shaft spins freely. Jumped to conclusions after spending so many hours to finish her up.

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    Ah thankfully it's something simple !!


    Best of luck with the rest if the repairs

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    Rear VC gasket was out of the channel toward the inside. Simple to fix and there are no oil leaks now. Metal / metal sound appears to be the AC pulley giving out after sitting for 8 months. Seems to be some internal resistance between the pulley and AC clutch. Probably need a new compressor.

    Also need to do more brake bleeding as the initial bleed had the ABS hydraulic unit off and the rear needs to be bled as well.

    She did get down on all fours and move under her own power a couple of feet forward. Clutch take up point is really close to the floor so I might adjust that too. If anyone has the link to jackhammer's clutch adj video I would appreciate it.

    Also had the ECS lights flashing and was thankful to find the passenger side shock connector unplugged so that was an easy fix.

    Need to get the car to smog before Saturday or I will miss the registration deadline. NorCal3S annual meet is a week from Sat too. It's about 2 hours drive away so I'll need to build confidence to go there.

    Almost forgot, I still have to flash the ECU with the injector size and latencies. Also have to change the fuel pump out which I can do now that the car isn't backed up against the rear wall in the garage.

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    Sounds like you are just around the corner from having her back

    TREMENDOUS work, sir....

    Bob.
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    Oldest son - 94 Danube Blue VR4 (sold 10/19)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    Rear VC gasket was out of the channel toward the inside. Simple to fix and there are no oil leaks now. Metal / metal sound appears to be the AC pulley giving out after sitting for 8 months. Seems to be some internal resistance between the pulley and AC clutch. Probably need a new compressor.

    Also need to do more brake bleeding as the initial bleed had the ABS hydraulic unit off and the rear needs to be bled as well.

    She did get down on all fours and move under her own power a couple of feet forward. Clutch take up point is really close to the floor so I might adjust that too. If anyone has the link to jackhammer's clutch adj video I would appreciate it.

    Also had the ECS lights flashing and was thankful to find the passenger side shock connector unplugged so that was an easy fix.

    Need to get the car to smog before Saturday or I will miss the registration deadline. NorCal3S annual meet is a week from Sat too. It's about 2 hours drive away so I'll need to build confidence to go there.

    Almost forgot, I still have to flash the ECU with the injector size and latencies. Also have to change the fuel pump out which I can do now that the car isn't backed up against the rear wall in the garage.
    You can put your registration in suspension for like $20 just FYI but then again its good to have a deadline isnt it.

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    Glad you're getting it sorted, Jim - I had the rear VC problem, too.
    Ranked No. #1 in initial quality

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    Adjusting the clutch is easy (other than getting a big guy under the dash). Just loosen the lock nut on the push rod and run the rod in and out to tighten or loosen. Make sure it's bleed very well before you start so it doesn't tighten up later and start slipping. You will probably have to adjust it more than once before you like it. Make sure you leave an inch or two of play in the top and snug the lock nut back up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    She did get down on all fours and move under her own power a couple of feet forward. Clutch take up point is really close to the floor so I might adjust that too. If anyone has the link to jackhammer's clutch adj video I would appreciate it.
    Cliff notes:

    Adjust the rod until you can't push the slave cylinder in by hand then give it a few turns the other way and make sure you can push the slave back in.
    This will give you max travel without closing the fluid return valve when the pedal is up.


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