If you pre-load the adjusters too much your wastegate travel will be limited and you may have boost spike or creep.

If you pre-load the adjusters too much your wastegate travel will be limited and you may have boost spike or creep.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
I kinda want to get this right before dropping in the motor since it's really easy at this stage to balance them so they open at the same pressure. How would I figure out the right pre-load for my setup?
Haha, thanks! Hopefully she will be a true p0rn star and her performance will match her looks![]()
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
Mounts are back. They went from this
to this
to this
![]()
I have asked before, but would someone point me to, or start a thread on setting waste gates? I have not set mine yet.![]()
Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
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Not as much progress this week as I had to go down to SoCal to help my daughter move apartments and celebrate her BF birthday.
I disassembled the TC and painted the iron casting and the aluminum housings. I had a new output seal pressed in by the machine shop but on Sunday I tried to press in the input seal and I managed to beat it into submission. As a result it will not be cooperating and will have to be replaced.
I started on the transmission last night after cleaning the major gunk off of it a couple weeks ago. I removed the bell housing and managed to change out the passenger axle seal after several attempts. These damn seals are TOUGH to get square with just a hammer. After 20 minutes of cursing I finally got it started well enough to drive it home. No such luck with the driver's side axle seal but since that one is in the bell housing I just took it to the machine shop along with the flywheel for resurfacing. A little expensive at $65 for the flywheel but they pull the dowels and do a two step resurfacing.
I failed to notice that the rear DR-650 shipped to me without the O2 housing studs so I ended up having to order some from Cherry Hill. For $20 I added that plastic piece (mudguard ?) that mounts to the crossmember. I'm not exactly sure what is does but it seemed like a good waste of $20. I discovered I had a missing lower timing cover bolt so I added that to the order and when I called yesterday I found out the order was already delayed just for that bolt. Mike is shipping out everything else and will send the bolt when it comes in. Great customer service from Cherry Hill. They might not be the absolute cheapest (and I sometimes forget to code 3SI into the order to get that extra 1%) but these guys ship FedEx cross country to me all the time for minimal charge so I stick with them.
So just need the studs, a new TC seal, gut the rear precat and I should be able to attach the trans and drop everything back in maybe this weekend.
Still thinking about the 14 PSI wastegate setting - not sure it's going to be optimal. I guess it depends on how much boost I'm able to run.
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