JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

[DuTTch]

We used to have the compressor rebuild by a company near Dallas, really solid work, as new again. It was ike $130

[Jimvr4]

Jim, forgive my poor memory, but you did get a new harmonic balancer, right?

Bob.

New balancer, idler, tensioner and now AC will be new. I fully expect the Alt to explode into a million pieces next

We used to have the compressor rebuild by a company near Dallas, really solid work, as new again. It was ike $130

I'll sell you my old compressor for CHEAP

I just want to drive damnit!

[anyonebutme]

so fresh and so clean-clean

[sergechronos]

Ugh..Every time I look at this, it makes me wish I could rebuild my motor all over again to try to reach this level..Oh well, always next time.

[Jimvr4]

Ugh..Every time I look at this, it makes me wish I could rebuild my motor all over again to try to reach this level..Oh well, always next time.

A young padawan you still are. But the force is strong with you

[DuTTch]

New balancer, idler, tensioner and now AC will be new. I fully expect the Alt to explode into a million pieces next



I'll sell you my old compressor for CHEAP

I just want to drive damnit!

Drives a spyder and needs AC lol

[Jimvr4]

AC compressor pulley failure has to be the most rediculous reason ever for not getting a car running. Already spent way too much time on it. I ordered a reman AC compressor from Rock Auto since it came with a 24 month warranty. After waiting 4 days it arrived only to discover it was advertised as having the electrical / pipe manifold and it simply came with a blocking plate. OK, no problem as I'll just transfer my existing manifold to the new unit, right?



Turns out this is a NO GO! Look at how the original housing has a recess for the electrical sensor (half moon shape) and the "new" one doesn't have it. This prevents the manifold from being used. Shit!



So, now I have to decide whether I can use parts of the old one and parts of the new one to get a working unit. So I take the six 5mm nuts off the painted "new" unit and find the underside of that ring is totally rusted and the paint is just hiding a really crappy part that should have been replated. So I say eff that unit, it's getting returned.

So I decide to take apart the my original since the only problem was it needed a new bearing. I removed the shaft nut with my impact driver and then went to autozone with the part and some tools and I rented the clutch puller. To my surprise I was able to turn the puller nut by hand and pull the clutch off the shaft. OK I did this in the AZ parking lot and went back in to return the tool and see about pressing out the bearing.



The bearing was installed from the side shown here and then locked in by those small tabs. The reverse side has a seat for the bearing.



The bearing for this compressor clutch is 40mm x 66mm x 24mm. Nachi is the original supplier. $45 shipped so a lot cheaper than a new compressor



40BGS39G-2DS NACHI Double-row Auto Air Conditioning Angular Contact Ball Bearing Japan 40x66x24: VXB.com Ball Bearings

[DocWalt]

Geez. Pretty crummy rebuilt compressor. You're making progress though

[Roybatty]

Nice. As you are probably aware, the service manual has a good 'break down' of the compressor.... Looks like you don't need it!

Revel in your time

[Jimvr4]

Nice. As you are probably aware, the service manual has a good 'break down' of the compressor.... Looks like you don't need it!

Revel in your time

Absolutely correct One thing I found odd was my armature plate splines were only at the top 1/8 inch or so whereas the splines in the reman unit were all the way through the part. This led me to believe mine was somehow stripped but was not the case.

The manual calls out some test procedures for the high pressure relief valve and the thermostat and revolution pick up sensor (this must not be equipped on compressors that don't have the half moon cutout) and the control valve. I haven't paid alot of attention to these since all the functions were good