If you have a wire getting hot or fuse melting you are running too small of gauge wire, have a bad connection, or both. Nothing less than 1/0 should be used.
If you have a wire getting hot or fuse melting you are running too small of gauge wire, have a bad connection, or both. Nothing less than 1/0 should be used.
Most of these systems allow you to start with 2nd button press when you press the brake, much like factory pushbuttons operate. In this case he used the clutch pedal, same difference. I have installed about 5 of them on various vehicles, including a late model 350z and infinity G35, both were manual trans. If I remember correctly you can do a 1 button press if you hold it for about 5 sec.
Thing I do not like about these systems is that you have to unlock the column by leaving a key in it, in all of the ones we did we cut off a key and left it in the cylinder in the acc positon and there was a cap that covered the ign switch. I didn't like the 'what if' factor if you had a system fail on a customer, there is not a backup system for a normal start thats anywhere near easy for a final user.
Last edited by Streamln1; 08-25-2012 at 09:05 PM.
It doesn't have to stay on the colum. Can you not relocate the ignition switch to the center console and use the key position for ACC, remote, push button start, or key start operation?
This project has worse scope creep than some of my builds.
I decided it would be cool if it can roll the windows up for me when I exit. Also, remote hatch release.![]()
AEM s2 EMS | E316Gs | E85
You have A.D.D.![]()
Where you put the button doesn't matter, Column still needs to be unlocked, and the ignition cylinder needs to stay in ACC. Im sure I could figure out a way around that and leave the wheel unlocked at all times with a little bit of research. Ideally you would want to be able to start the car with the key in the case that the system failed.
Last edited by Tigchamp; 08-27-2012 at 06:28 AM.
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