What did you do today to your 3/S?

[TurboSinceBirth]

Yea and with school coming up on Aug 20 I don't have much time either right now. This is gonna be a important semester for me. With all the parts to fix The heads its around 1000 dollars. Me and my father will do the work ourselves this time and I will read the shit out of this service manual on putting the heads back on. And with the school money lol I might as well buy good turbos. The ones I have are garbage as fuck as I only got them to get the car to run the first time . I'm thinkin 5857 or 5557 with .63 ar as I seen jrods dyno numbers with the small ass housing for those 5557s.

Read the service manual, buy a timing belt tensioner tool so you can use a torque wrench, buy only an OEM tensioner and pulleys, and double or triple check the timing. Hell, leave it sit for a day or two and check it again to make sure there isn't any slack or the timing marks aren't lined up. It's not too hard just take your time. If your heads have been milled a bunch of times the cam gears may be slightly off. I had one that was 1/2 a tooth off because the head had been milled so many times at least 3 I knew about from the previous owners.


I've been tempted to buy another set of 5857s to put back on my stroker since I never got to use them before I sold most of my parts. I didn't like running a 1/2" spacer for the rear manifold, grinding the compressor cover, grinding the valve cover, grinding the EGR plate/intake manifold to clear, and then all the modification I had to to to my intercooler pipes. If I do it again I may either buy a set of billet PTE turbos that come in a T04B cover because supposedly it will eliminate any fitment issues I had with the DR T3 headers running a spacer and grinding due to the larger T04E compressor cover let alone a ported S cover forget it, or I will fab up a set of T3 manifolds and have the turbos pointing towards each other like Ray's 6262 setup. I guess it depends how much time I have to practice welding since I'm new to TIG. I would also recommend that you don't go with .63 TD05 housings but do a .63 T3. You already saw how little of power Jared picked up going from 20-30 psi. Saf ran those 5857s and put down way more than Jared's 7xx AWHP at 30 psi. The TD05 housing is too restrictive unless you can modify it like MTC did. Save the hassle and do T3s though. I won't be working as many hours this fall or spring so I'll probably have to wait on a big build until next summer or until I'm finished with school.


I ended up checking my fuel pump because I was going to swap another new Aeromotive Stealth in and found out the hose connecting the fuel pump was loose/bad. It was partially off so I tightened it back up. It ended up that the hose must not have been rated for fuel because it leaked air after I took it off, plugged one end, and blew through the other. I'm wondering if they sent the wrong one with the kit and also curious if this was giving me fits the whole time I tried running ethanol so I will probably try putting some back in again. Air in the system or that leak would explain misfires because of running too lean and adding more fuel hardly changing the AFR or making a large swing for each change would make some sense. I may need to swap a different fuel pump hangar in if it keeps giving me grief and I'll keep an eye on it if my AFRs change or it starts cutting out WOT. At least I'm making progress on it now.

[keo92stealth]

Read the service manual, buy a timing belt tensioner tool so you can use a torque wrench, buy only an OEM tensioner and pulleys, and double or triple check the timing. Hell, leave it sit for a day or two and check it again to make sure there isn't any slack or the timing marks aren't lined up. It's not too hard just take your time. If your heads have been milled a bunch of times the cam gears may be slightly off. I had one that was 1/2 a tooth off because the head had been milled so many times at least 3 I knew about from the previous owners.


I've been tempted to buy another set of 5857s to put back on my stroker since I never got to use them before I sold most of my parts. I didn't like running a 1/2" spacer for the rear manifold, grinding the compressor cover, grinding the valve cover, grinding the EGR plate/intake manifold to clear, and then all the modification I had to to to my intercooler pipes. If I do it again I may either buy a set of billet PTE turbos that come in a T04B cover because supposedly it will eliminate any fitment issues I had with the DR T3 headers running a spacer and grinding due to the larger T04E compressor cover let alone a ported S cover forget it, or I will fab up a set of T3 manifolds and have the turbos pointing towards each other like Ray's 6262 setup. I guess it depends how much time I have to practice welding since I'm new to TIG. I would also recommend that you don't go with .63 TD05 housings but do a .63 T3. You already saw how little of power Jared picked up going from 20-30 psi. Saf ran those 5857s and put down way more than Jared's 7xx AWHP at 30 psi. The TD05 housing is too restrictive unless you can modify it like MTC did. Save the hassle and do T3s though. I won't be working as many hours this fall or spring so I'll probably have to wait on a big build until next summer or until I'm finished with school.


I ended up checking my fuel pump because I was going to swap another new Aeromotive Stealth in and found out the hose connecting the fuel pump was loose/bad. It was partially off so I tightened it back up. It ended up that the hose must not have been rated for fuel because it leaked air after I took it off, plugged one end, and blew through the other. I'm wondering if they sent the wrong one with the kit and also curious if this was giving me fits the whole time I tried running ethanol so I will probably try putting some back in again. Air in the system or that leak would explain misfires because of running too lean and adding more fuel hardly changing the AFR or making a large swing for each change would make some sense. I may need to swap a different fuel pump hangar in if it keeps giving me grief and I'll keep an eye on it if my AFRs change or it starts cutting out WOT. At least I'm making progress on it now.

I still think the e85 will work lol. You know, the headers I got from ssm weren't that bad at all . The only part I didnt like about them was how they welded the collectors and flange together . Other than that I actually like em. Now getting them to fit haha. The rear motor mount had to be smashed and we had to grind down a little nub on the compressor housing.that was it for the rear. the front we had to whip out the plasma cutter to cut the front motor mount bracket and then we put in a solid front mount . Without cutting that bracket it would not work.

[DK77]

Probably. I just bought one and literally only ran it on E85 for all of 5 miles before I drained the tank and ran 91 through it for another 100 miles or so. I knew ethanol didn't play nice with the mesh fuel filters but I thought it would at least let you make a trip to the gas station. Lol. My car immediately acted up as I was coming out of the gas station so maybe I got bad gas. I've already been through 3 new filters. I'll try another one and also the fuel pump. I'm definitely making upgraded lines and a SS filter my next mod though after going through this. I can put my fuel pressure gauge and AFPR to good use I have sitting on the shelf.

Make sure you check/change the filter in the tank too since that one will clog too. And I would say to use cheap paper filters under the hood but change them often for the first few changes then run a SS since the SS cost more and would still get clogged with crap.

[J_Parker]

Today I discovered that BOTH of my turbos are currently sitting in customs at the U.S./Canada border!!! Can't wait to get those things here and into my car!

[green-lantern]

Drove it again without any issues or getting pulled over. It could use some fine tuning but it's been awesome lately. Been pretty much daily driving it. I need a new radar detector.

[IPD]

Drove it again without any issues or getting pulled over. It could use some fine tuning but it's been awesome lately. Been pretty much daily driving it. I need a new radar detector.

valentine 1.

[TurboSinceBirth]

I still think the e85 will work lol. You know, the headers I got from ssm weren't that bad at all . The only part I didnt like about them was how they welded the collectors and flange together . Other than that I actually like em. Now getting them to fit haha. The rear motor mount had to be smashed and we had to grind down a little nub on the compressor housing.that was it for the rear. the front we had to whip out the plasma cutter to cut the front motor mount bracket and then we put in a solid front mount . Without cutting that bracket it would not work.

Sounds like a little bit of work. I had to modify the motor mount brackets one time but it wasn't too bad with a plasma cutter. Lol. Better get that motor back together for good this time and put your car on the road.

Make sure you check/change the filter in the tank too since that one will clog too. And I would say to use cheap paper filters under the hood but change them often for the first few changes then run a SS since the SS cost more and would still get clogged with crap.

I checked it and it was fine. The pump was almost new. I made sure there weren't any other issues. I couldn't tell the hose leaked until I physically took it off and blew through it with my hand plugging the other end. I'm keeping an eye on it. I ended up blowing my hotwire fuse because the fuel pump positive wire shorted out. I noticed the heat shrink tubing was a little loose. I need to go get some that's fuel compatible and resolder the positive wire. In another month or so I'll probably have upgraded lines and a SS filter.

[keo92stealth]

I still don't understand what went wrong or why the tensoner keeps giving up. Also it was sketchy as hell anyway cause when I pulled the pin on the plunger u could literally put the pin right back in?? That doesn't sound right. And then when I was using the tool for the tensioner pulley to get the belt tight the motor would rotate when shit was tight ??

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Spent 4 hours doing the 60k service on the SL to fix the leaky water pump. Turns out it and the timing belt were aftermarket crap. Looks like someone had reused the auto-tensioner too. It was fully collapsed, and the timing belt was manually set too tight. All good now!

I still don't understand what went wrong or why the tensoner keeps giving up. Also it was sketchy as hell anyway cause when I pulled the pin on the plunger u could literally put the pin right back in?? That doesn't sound right. And then when I was using the tool for the tensioner pulley to get the belt tight the motor would rotate when shit was tight ??

Once it's properly tensioned, you should be able to move the pin in and out easily (after having rotated the engine 2 times). When you set the tension on the belt, you didn't have all the slack of the belt around the tensioner pulley. That's why the engine moved. Route the belt from right to left starting at the crank. Keep it TIGHT, while routing it. This will leave all the slack at the tensioner pulley, and when you apply tension, it won't rotate. Then your timing will stay where you set it in the first place.

[keo92stealth]

Spent 4 hours doing the 60k service on the SL to fix the leaky water pump. Turns out it and the timing belt were aftermarket crap. Looks like someone had reused the auto-tensioner too. It was fully collapsed, and the timing belt was manually set too tight. All good now!



Once it's properly tensioned, you should be able to move the pin in and out easily (after having rotated the engine 2 times). When you set the tension on the belt, you didn't have all the slack of the belt around the tensioner pulley. That's why the engine moved. Route the belt from right to left starting at the crank. Keep it TIGHT, while routing it. This will leave all the slack at the tensioner pulley, and when you apply tension, it won't rotate. Then your timing will stay where you set it in the first place.

So even when the pin is pulled u should be able to stick it back in?? Is that what you're saying ?