What did you do today to your 3/S?

[JasonY]

....yeah



Jason

[AdamVR4]

So even when the pin is pulled u should be able to stick it back in?? Is that what you're saying ?

Don't you have aftermarket springs? Didn't Ray tell you to over tension your belt? Why are you asking if the pin should be able to slide in and out freely? I know you've already been told that only applies to stock (valve train) cars.

Here's the best advice I can possibly give you: get stock valve springs and downgrade whatever you have to in order to use them. You and your mechanic are in over your heads.

[keo92stealth]

Don't you have aftermarket springs? Didn't Ray tell you to over tension your belt? Why are you asking if the pin should be able to slide in and out freely? I know you've already been told that only applies to stock (valve train) cars.

Here's the best advice I can possibly give you: get stock valve springs and downgrade whatever you have to in order to use them. You and your mechanic are in over your heads.

For one nobody has ever told me that when u pull the pin on a stock valve train car the pin slides back in freely. 2 im not gonna waste me fucking money by downgrading anything. And 3 you think I would really want to destroy a high dollar engine due so simple mistakes. What do you think I did. The pulley was past the standard smiley face position so I don't know wtf . And that dudes not touching my shit anymore thats for sure. But what the hell did ray mean by setting the tensioner near bottom ?

[anyonebutme]

But what the hell did ray mean by setting the tensioner near bottom ?

Tighten the tensioner until it's almost bottomed out inwards.

[keo92stealth]

Tighten the tensioner until it's almost bottomed out inwards.

So not to where its as far as it will come out but in? Weird.

[anyonebutme]

So not to where its as far as it will come out but in? Weird.

Why is that weird? You want it so that is has the most force on the belt, and if the tensioner were to not push out (occurs during parts of the rotation) or fail, that the belt will not get slack enough to skip.

aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock. This also means in parts of the rotation the springs try and spin the cams backwards and cause slack in the belt. If you don't have enough tensioner excursion distance, belt skips.

[keo92stealth]

Why is that weird? You want it so that is has the most force on the belt, and if the tensioner were to not push out (occurs during parts of the rotation) or fail, that the belt will not get slack enough to skip.

aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock. This also means in parts of the rotation the springs try and spin the cams backwards and cause slack in the belt. If you don't have enough tensioner excursion distance, belt skips.

Hmm. That does make sense. Ill probably make a rebuild thread in a few weeks so hopefully you guys can feed me some knowledge on other things as well.

[anyonebutme]

Hmm. That does make sense. Ill probably make a rebuild thread in a few weeks so hopefully you guys can feed me some knowledge on other things as well.

come into chat more often, that's where I dispense most of the world's greatest [free] 3S advice.

[keo92stealth]

come into chat more often, that's where I dispense most of the world's greatest [free] 3S advice.

Lol for sure

[TurboSinceBirth]

I didn't know that upgraded springs needed that much more tension. New to me. I guess my motor was ok the whole 10 minutes it ran when I tensioned it where the grenade pin went in and out freely. I had cams and upgraded springs.


Today I ended up tracing a short for my fuel pump I ended up blowing the hotwire fuse a few days ago checking the fuel pump. It's a good thing I fixed the hose too because now the car runs great. I could only get about 14 psi without knocking on 91 which I think was probably because of the advanced timing due to the 720 injectors. Out of curiosity I decided to put some ethanol in the tank to see if it would run like crap before when it randomly misfired. Nope not this time. I was able to run 17 psi and I probably have about a E35-40 mix in the tank. I can't wait until I switch back to e85 and crank up the boost. It definitely likes it leaner. I went from about 11:1 on 91 to 12.5:1 on the mix although since it wasn't full e85 I probably should have ran it a little richer in hindsight. That's probably why it had a few knock counts at 17 psi.

Twice while I was driving I could hear a ticking when I came to a stop and idled. When I rev'd it went with the rpms. As soon as I started moving though it went away. It only did it two different times and I couldn't get it to repeat so I think the lifters bled down. I'll be checking my oil and filter just in case. I have around 13 psi at 750 rpms which concerns mean since it has been that way for a few months and I'd like it to be higher so when I swap to a 5-speed I will be pulling the motor with the transmission to check the bearings and oil pump unless of course it doesn't survive until then. Lol. I better not jinx myself.