What did you do today to your 3/S?

[Boomer3000]

Time to get this thread back on track, This ^^^^ Needs to be in its own thread.

Finally found time to get back to all my Pm's, and do some here and there work on the car

Got it ready to pull motor and trans when it gets to shop. Also swapped old trim for new trim.
Old crappy trim

New shiny one


Tan crap A pillars


Installed new charcoal ones


Starting on the headliner in the next couple weeks, will be carbon fiber wrapping it. Also plan to pull the carpet, dye it and condition it.

[AdamVR4]

For one nobody has ever told me that when u pull the pin on a stock valve train car the pin slides back in freely. 2 im not gonna waste me fucking money by downgrading anything. And 3 you think I would really want to destroy a high dollar engine due so simple mistakes. What do you think I did. The pulley was past the standard smiley face position so I don't know wtf . And that dudes not touching my shit anymore thats for sure. But what the hell did ray mean by setting the tensioner near bottom ?

1) You're hilarious. I'm not going to give myself a head ache re-reading your thread about this... I know someone, potentially multiple people, told you that in stock configuration, when the timing is set correctly, after rotating the engine 2-3 revolutions, the pin slides in and out freely. Hell, I might have. I know that came up because you didn't make your full mod list immediately clear, so you made a bunch of people waste their time giving you advice that wasn't applicable (the stiffer than OEM springs you think you need complicate the situation considerably).

Even if they didn't give you the OEM advice, that exact information is all widely available on several forums, websites, and the service manual. It's embarrassing that you've spent this much time wrestling with a car you have THIS much money into and you STILL don't have the factory service manual. It took 5 seconds to find a torrent: Complete 3000GT Service Manual E-Book - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center... I prefer my hard copy. How did you think you assembled engines? Hopes and dreams? Do you know what a torque wrench is?

2) You wasted your money buying parts you couldn't successfully install, trying to build a car beyond your abilities.

3) Didn't you? You had most of the best minds in the 3S world offering you advice and you still stubbornly installed your belt as you saw best and you ended up bending valves rather than listening/understanding what you were being told.

4) You're hung up on the wrong thing and have been for what, weeks, months? The pulley position (indicated by the spanner wrench holes) isn't what matters. The position of the tensioner rod, indicated to the mechanic by the force required to remove the grenade pin, is ALL that matters. If it slides in and out freely AFTER spinning the engine a couple times, it's in the OEM position. If it requires force, it's either OVER or UNDER tightened... And hopefully you can figure out which by using your eyes.

Dammit that took too long to type... And I won't be apologizing for this one.

[n2nsanity]

Heat Shields


Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Pads, Painted Calipers, Black Lug Nuts (but forgot to clean wheels/tires)

[Ange]

Heat Shields


Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Pads, Painted Calipers, Black Lug Nuts (but forgot to clean wheels/tires)

nice! those heatshields are just painted right? if so what type of paint did you use?

[n2nsanity]

Leftover duplicolor caliper paint.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Leftover duplicolor caliper paint.

Won't that be a fire hazard on the manifolds?

[keo92stealth]

1) You're hilarious. I'm not going to give myself a head ache re-reading your thread about this... I know someone, potentially multiple people, told you that in stock configuration, when the timing is set correctly, after rotating the engine 2-3 revolutions, the pin slides in and out freely. Hell, I might have. I know that came up because you didn't make your full mod list immediately clear, so you made a bunch of people waste their time giving you advice that wasn't applicable (the stiffer than OEM springs you think you need complicate the situation considerably).

Even if they didn't give you the OEM advice, that exact information is all widely available on several forums, websites, and the service manual. It's embarrassing that you've spent this much time wrestling with a car you have THIS much money into and you STILL don't have the factory service manual. It took 5 seconds to find a torrent: Complete 3000GT Service Manual E-Book - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center... I prefer my hard copy. How did you think you assembled engines? Hopes and dreams? Do you know what a torque wrench is?

2) You wasted your money buying parts you couldn't successfully install, trying to build a car beyond your abilities.

3) Didn't you? You had most of the best minds in the 3S world offering you advice and you still stubbornly installed your belt as you saw best and you ended up bending valves rather than listening/understanding what you were being told.

4) You're hung up on the wrong thing and have been for what, weeks, months? The pulley position (indicated by the spanner wrench holes) isn't what matters. The position of the tensioner rod, indicated to the mechanic by the force required to remove the grenade pin, is ALL that matters. If it slides in and out freely AFTER spinning the engine a couple times, it's in the OEM position. If it requires force, it's either OVER or UNDER tightened... And hopefully you can figure out which by using your eyes.

Dammit that took too long to type... And I won't be apologizing for this one.

Not looking for you to apologize lol calm yourself Adam man. Don't wanna get on someone's bad sad that has tons of knowledge and shit I might need in a few weeks. Even when your talking shit your still spilling knowledge lol.

Ok now back on track. Boomer I thought u sold it. Did u end up keeping or buying another?

[keo92stealth]

I didn't know that upgraded springs needed that much more tension. New to me. I guess my motor was ok the whole 10 minutes it ran when I tensioned it where the grenade pin went in and out freely. I had cams and upgraded springs.


Today I ended up tracing a short for my fuel pump I ended up blowing the hotwire fuse a few days ago checking the fuel pump. It's a good thing I fixed the hose too because now the car runs great. I could only get about 14 psi without knocking on 91 which I think was probably because of the advanced timing due to the 720 injectors. Out of curiosity I decided to put some ethanol in the tank to see if it would run like crap before when it randomly misfired. Nope not this time. I was able to run 17 psi and I probably have about a E35-40 mix in the tank. I can't wait until I switch back to e85 and crank up the boost. It definitely likes it leaner. I went from about 11:1 on 91 to 12.5:1 on the mix although since it wasn't full e85 I probably should have ran it a little richer in hindsight. That's probably why it had a few knock counts at 17 psi.

Twice while I was driving I could hear a ticking when I came to a stop and idled. When I rev'd it went with the rpms. As soon as I started moving though it went away. It only did it two different times and I couldn't get it to repeat so I think the lifters bled down. I'll be checking my oil and filter just in case. I have around 13 psi at 750 rpms which concerns mean since it has been that way for a few months and I'd like it to be higher so when I swap to a 5-speed I will be pulling the motor with the transmission to check the bearings and oil pump unless of course it doesn't survive until then. Lol. I better not jinx myself.

Man I'm curious to see what the 1000s would do now.

[Blackmount]

Will u guys shut up. Tired of being notified of this thread expecting to read something epic or see awesome pictures and all it actually is is you two writing posts that everyone and there grandma has too short of a attention span to read and doesnt care anyways. Jeeze.

Vote for pedro.

[Chris GTO TT]

Washed and vacuumed it.