Sounds like the dyno was trying to force the front and rear torque distribution to be 50/50

Sounds like the dyno was trying to force the front and rear torque distribution to be 50/50
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Didn't suck yesterday and actually made something. Going to work on it today also. Two days in a row!!?!??!
Finished the basic cutting of the driver and passenger side main foundation steering arm brackets. Still need to smooth and round everything out to make them pretty. Will also have to get 1/2" longer brake caliper bolts and will recess in the middle holes a bit to be able to fit a bolt on them.
The original one is downright puny in comparison.
passenger side
drivers side
Basic idea of rod end placement. Bumpsteer will be great! Hard to tell from picture but the heims joint is further inside and lined up with the steering arm.
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Project LS3S - '94 Stealth
- Build thread on 3si http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/mdoe8s-n...72/?highlight=
Had a thought today..which is, my regulator reads 50cfh even when disconnected, so thinking it may just be that gauge that is wrong. Played with it a bit laying some ugly welds here. Had some porosity in the first couple (which are the lower pictures.) Bumped it up a bit and laid a couple more.
Thoughts? Still haven't gotten a response back from Eastwood about it.
Edit: few more after grinding them down some and wire wheeling the base metal.
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Last edited by sergechronos; 02-09-2015 at 04:21 PM.
Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts
I replaced the regulator on the Eastwood TIG with a flow meter from HTP. http://www.usaweld.com/SearchResults...rch=Flow+meter
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

keep turning the regulator up until you can get a smooth weld without porosity or excessive splatter.
The easy test is weld with it off, then you know how it acts with no flow.
Pretty much what I ended up doing. Porosity and splatter are minimal now, think most anything left is due to technique at this point.
Thanks FamilyMAN, I'll give that a look.
Since I don't have free time until next week to mess with it again (and I wore out my grinder cutting wheel) I'm going to try to get a response from Eastwood and see I'd they'll ship me another one for now before I buy a new one. Likely will end up upgrading either way, but it'd be nice to avoid spending more money for the moment.
Need to get more cutting wheels for the grinder so I can cut down that square tubing and make the cart to move the car to clean the garage out and up and rearrange everything for more space. Likely going to ditch/disassemble the two rolling service carts I have now in favor of a large multidrawer rolling tool chest. Still need to finish off the stand I built for the tool cabinet, and to get/make a step stool for that area. Many projects to do to try to get ready before spring break.
I'm thinking the dyno was possibly incorrectly setup too. Apparently (I wasn't actually there unfortunately) the dyno was coming up with front/rear roller difference errors, I also now have 2 flat spots on each front tyre where they locked up on the rollers.
Sort of reminds me of this thread
Hub dyno info needed please - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center
Since its that time of the year, working on some stuff (top secret and what not) and trying to get a good head on picture of the 2G headlights with the front bumper off.
Basically a shot about like this. Area that I'm looking into is where that pop up motor is on the 1Gs (the red dot to the side of that picture towards the core support.)
I'm sure you guys can guess what I'm doing, but haven't found a really good picture of that area at an angle like this yet. Wanting to get some stuff planned out before I cut out my old 1G buckets and weld in these 2Gs.
Practing welding is fun isn't it? I love it.
Those welds are looking too cold and you are definitely moving too fast. Try slowing down first. Also, what's your helmet darkness set at? USually around 11 works great. Looks like you missed the joint on a couple which could be due it being set too dark. For myself, a bit of oscillation helps me guide the puddle and make the weld my desired thickness. Also helps because I don't have to pull a perfectly straight line.
Once you get a new gauge and regulator, I would turn the cfh down to the mid 20's. 50 is far too high for these applications. (unless it's your gauge being stupid which sounds like it is.)
Good luck!
Last edited by MDoe8; 02-10-2015 at 11:07 AM. Reason: put video in
Oh yeah, I made some progress on my car as well. Determined exactly how i'm doing the transmission tunnel and made one of the braces that goes over it. No pictures though.
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