What did you do today to your 3/S?

[Jimvr4]

battling a leak on my 6 speed tranny drain plug and a leak on my power stereing pump. A friend recommended using a o2 sensor plug from a downpipe on the tranny drain plug as it is a bit longer, its tightening but still have a small leak, now I put teflon tape on it a biger washer and some rtv lol I gotta go look this morning ! otherwise that billet broomfield endcase looks really nice.

I had a leak on the PS pump for a while, bought another PS pump and still had the leak, this time I had the PS pump locally rebuilt and frik there is still the leak so now I am suspecting the hose that goes over the shaft. Do these Hoses/alumnium connectors ever wear out? I put some RTV over the o-rings, not sure this is a good idea, I gotta go look on this this morning too.

Mark, with a new crush washer the tranny drain plug should not be leaking. Are you positive it is not leaking from the case seal and running down?

On the PS system, if you haven't changed out all the rubber hoses you should plan on doing it. Those hoses just get hard over time and don't seal well on the hardlines and reservois.

[green-lantern]

Mark, with a new crush washer the tranny drain plug should not be leaking. Are you positive it is not leaking from the case seal and running down?

On the PS system, if you haven't changed out all the rubber hoses you should plan on doing it. Those hoses just get hard over time and don't seal well on the hardlines and reservois.

I think there's a rubber O-ring that needs to be replaced on the hose that goes to the pump. Might want to just replace the whole hose like Jim said though and eliminate other parts that might be leaking on the hose. I got one from auto zone for a friends car and it fit fine.

[Jimvr4]

I think there's a rubber O-ring that needs to be replaced on the hose that goes to the pump. Might want to just replace the whole hose like Jim said though and eliminate other parts that might be leaking on the hose. I got one from auto zone for a friends car and it fit fine.

Yes there are two small O-rings on the hardlines that join the rack as well. There is also a rebuild kit for the pumps that has about 10 O-rings including the one you mention but it is tedious to rebuild the pump.

[sergechronos]

I've contemplated switching the whole power steering system over to braided PTFE lined hoses and AN fittings.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[sketch]

I've contemplated switching the whole power steering system over to braided PTFE lined hoses and AN fittings.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

any particular reason(s)? just looking to pick your brain =b

[sergechronos]

PS reservoir is a PITA, and my rubbers are about to expire i think. And if you've got to spend the money to replace the rubber lines anyhow, its not a huge premium over that to go to the AN lines and fittings. Plus I'd like to shrink the reservoir down to relocate it into the wheel well or similar for space purposes and upsize the PS cooler up front.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[DocWalt]

I swapped to a PTFE braided line on my GTI... Sooo much nicer (also a lot smaller diameter so more engine bay space!) and will last way longer than the car will.

[sergechronos]

Indeed, PTFE lines ftw. to relocate PS reservoir, options are basically cut the body around the shock tower and put it inside that frame area or mount it on the other side of the bay where the battery used to be. Washer reservoir has been deleted so the battery will either be lowered in the bay, or relocated to the trunk. Given that I plan to run PTFE lines anyhow, leaning towards doing the passenger side of the bay and then running the PS cooler to a real cooler on the front of the car in front of the AC condenser, probably in a tube and fin style so as not to disrupt the flow or change the pressure much.

I did a little bit more sound deadening in the car yesterday, basically the passenger footwell area, but it was hard to do much because with the rain that meant leaving the doors and stuff shut and the fumes from that glue were insane. Right now I just have the sound and thermal insulation down, contemplating if I can squeeze a closed cell foam over the top of it without effecting fit of the carpet too much..In retrospect, I should've just cut out the large squares in the footwell that were empty space and put closed cell foam in there before welding it back up. Oh well.

Spent time trying to fix leaks on the garage by asphalting the roof but it started raining almost as soon as I finished and I still had 2 leaks. So next weekend I will be doing more asphalting up there, plus new screws for the roof to help hold it down better since a lot of these have come loose over time and the wood underneath is too far gone to save.

Also measured some stuff out..Leaning towards upsizing the radiator (possibly for a dual pass style) while I've got it apart, however with the TD05s, space is already limited so I want to lean the radiator and condenser forwards to give a bit more space, and duct it to vent out the hood. Should completely alleviate any temperature concerns and help keep the engine bay cooler. Could just go with the 3SX dual pass, but I can do it for cheaper by doing my own thing and customizing stuff. If I can't get a decently priced and sized dual pass or single pass, then I will probably go with the 3SX single pass just for the larger capacity.

[Bloodlust182]

Indeed, PTFE lines ftw. to relocate PS reservoir, options are basically cut the body around the shock tower and put it inside that frame area or mount it on the other side of the bay where the battery used to be. Washer reservoir has been deleted so the battery will either be lowered in the bay, or relocated to the trunk. Given that I plan to run PTFE lines anyhow, leaning towards doing the passenger side of the bay and then running the PS cooler to a real cooler on the front of the car in front of the AC condenser, probably in a tube and fin style so as not to disrupt the flow or change the pressure much.

I was considering installing one of those ps coolers from jeeps like this but longer




In other news I installed some new brakes and a drivers side axle after mine took a dump.



Also pulled apart my pass side 1G 3000Gt foglight to get some condensation out of it and reseal it. Never seen a pic of the internals so I grabbed a few.

[familyMAN]

Made an AEM cold start and hot start results vid.....
Self tuned. AEM series2. 4g64 swap. E85.


Cold start.

I may tweak a little more. Actually want it to not start so fast when cold, so it can build a little oil pressure first. (thanks donnie for the idea.) Idle target slowly starts to drop as it warms which you can hear at the end.





Hot start.

Phone ran out of memory so it cut off too soon. It would've showed that the AFR settles in at 14.6-14.8. Start time is right where I want it. I can make it start quicker. (I turned the sync early option off.)



Haven't spent a ton of time on it since everything tuning related will change very soon...turbo, cams, compression, injectors and maybe intake mani.

Don't be afraid of AEM Series2 3Sers. You can do a base tune on your own and get the drivability nailed for your setup. Then take it to Ray for a good dyno power tune.


Oh, I also bought a bnib 7blade HX40 (69 lb/min) and a used 18cm2 twin scroll housing to go with it.