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Thread: What did you do today to your 3/S?

  1. #4271
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    Don't get the cage until you absolutely have to. It makes driving on the street more dangerous (the bar is padded but still, there's a steel bar behind your head) and it was so much work...

    And when the car gets back to 135 mph (it was up to around 130 mph based on 1/8th mile results at the end of the night at the TXG), they're going to see I need a 6th point (pass side door bar). I'm not sure I'll ever have the motivation necessary to add it.
    '93 VR4 | 10.57 @ 135 on C16 | 11.29 @ 125 on 93 | ~3275 lbs

  2. #4272
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    Shock nightmare. Yesterday i broke down and cut the rear shocks off the car so that I could replace them with the new ones i bought from GZP. Still working on the inner ring of one of the the lower shock mounts. Gonna have to grind it off completely as it appears to be one with the car....still...grinding metal is always a good time. Takes me back to the days with my 68 Coronet....

    Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

  3. #4273
    I don't bite
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdamVR4 View Post
    Really? I've had it since 2005 when they told me not to come back to the track without it. S&W racecars mild steel cage. Definitely messed up the first cut on the DS door bar, so it is really low and won't do much in a wreck... But it gets me through tech and doesn't make getting into the car suck too badly.
    '12:

    Guess I haven't paid attention. Your car has always been pretty street oriented and you live in TX, so I assumed no cage and less regulation Love the 2012 picture. It's perfect!
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  4. #4274
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    Parts keep showing up! I love the winter parts collection phase. Here are the lists:

    Have, waiting to go in:
    SS Tcase
    New rear AWD sway bar
    AWS Delete
    Rear adjustable control arms
    Undercoating
    New battery cables for trunk mount (using chassis gnd atm)
    Fuel pump hotwire
    LCD BC
    Rear subframe for AWD conversion
    2nd gen front brake conversion
    Vac-assist clutch master cylinder
    ARC2 (possibly after flashable ECU or I'll sell it)

    Need to order:
    Rims/Tires
    CFDS
    Flashable ECU
    Bellhousing brace

    This weekend I'll hopefully run the gas line to my heater that I hung a couple weekends ago. I'm tired of the kerosene salamander heater.

    Maybe I should start a build thread?

    95 Base 3k: 6G74/TT/AWD conversion

  5. #4275
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    Quote Originally Posted by FeaRpb View Post
    I really want that same cage setup you have.

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    I 2nd that... also Why leave backseat in if you have cage and harness in the way so clearly no one could sit back there in a legal mannor? is it for classing orr???

  6. #4276
    One fix at a time verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    The coilpack I have I bought from you Definitely will have plugs, couplers, clamps. I have a spare newish coil pack and wires. Really thinking about buying a walbro 416. I only need one pump for my current power goals and I don't like the idea of two pumps. I guess 1 of my 340's might be close enough though just in case one gave up.

    It's a loooong drive and to end up having a few hundred dollar part hold us up, so trying to think ahead. Who wants to road trip with me??
    That's right. I think it was the coilpack and HKS DLI. Both of them were nearly brand new. I ended up buying another set later on to put on my car since I had to sell those at the time to fund a car purchase. You should definitely buy a Walbro 416/485. IPS has them the cheapest but I bought it through Chris Hill. He was willing to price match and I ended up donating the savings to them since it wasn't a big deal anyways but more out of curiosity. Selling parts isn't the bread and butter anyways.

    The Aeromotive Stealth 340 isn't ethanol compatible. Trevor had one fail on him. It seems the failure rate is about the same as the non-ethanol Walbro 400. I ran it for a few months without any issues but sold it and the other brand new one I had in favor of the 416/485. After I switched from 720s to 1000cc injectors I found the 340 running out of steam around 26-27 psi. My AFRs wouldn't go any richer than 12:1 at that point which was as far as I wanted to push it. With the 416/485 I could get it into the 10s at that boost. Now at 31 psi I'm approaching mid to high 11s AFR again so I'll need to hookup evoscan to check my IDCs and see if it's the fuel pump or injectors nearly maxed. When I was doing some research I found an Evo dyno where they maxed a 340 on E85 at 630AWHP. I couldn't find many other E85 dynos but had already decided to switch to an E85 compatible pump. It's really nice keeping things simple. Eventually I will swap to dual pumps if I upgrade big enough to where I need it.

  7. #4277
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    Finished up another batch of electroplating...Now it's time to really focus on getting the transaxle parts all purchased & sent off to Chris for a rebuild.


    Sent from the garage
    '90 Toyota Celica GT Liftback..........................(X) (daily driver)
    '73 Dodge Challenger 340...............................(X)
    '91 Firestorm Red Stealth R/T TT.....................(X)

  8. #4278
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboSinceBirth View Post
    That's right. I think it was the coilpack and HKS DLI. Both of them were nearly brand new. I ended up buying another set later on to put on my car since I had to sell those at the time to fund a car purchase. You should definitely buy a Walbro 416/485.
    hmmmm. $179 from Ninja right now. May buy one just in case and have it as back up. If nothing else it can sit on shelf for a future twin walbro 416 install. I have a twin pump setup. I guess I would need -6AN cap for bulkhead/fuelhat and a -6AN cap for the yblock (-6 to -8). DLI died BTW. I think a little water killed it.

    Back on topic...Not totally on topic, but I bought a trailer brake controller for the Montero which is indirectly for my 3S

  9. #4279
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    fic 1050s are in and I have a tune set up. Should get it fired up today.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  10. #4280
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    Hey guys, what is the sensor right under the shift linkage on the front of the trans ?

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