So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

**Disrupter** · 09-04-2012, 07:43 AM

Just got the VR4Clone ecu installed and Holy Smoothness BATMAN! Current mods are 13t's, evo560's, Supra pump, FMIC, Catless 3" single shot exhaust, 7psi.... Big thanks to Greg, Jester, Gate, Blackstealth, and all the other Legends involved in ECUFlash. I had a MAF-T setup I was going to use, but will sell that because I got my hands on a dirt cheap evo399 Maf. The one question I do have is I had a Blitz DSBC for my EBC from my piggy-back setup. I cant find my stock boost solenoid, is there a better replacement? I found one for $20 bucks locally, but I thought I would ask if there is something that would work with the flash ecu to control boost.

**Monster Stealth** · 09-04-2012, 08:16 AM

Originally Posted by Disrupter

The one question I do have is I had a Blitz DSBC for my EBC from my piggy-back setup. I cant find my stock boost solenoid, is there a better replacement? I found one for $20 bucks locally, but I thought I would ask if there is something that would work with the flash ecu to control boost.

Right now only the OE BCS has been tested. I know there are a few of us out there that are testing others. I personally have installed the GM 3-port BCS and have been very pleased with the results, but have only bneen bale to play with it for a week before I had to tear the turbos out and send them in for a rebuild.

**Vishnu** · 09-05-2012, 12:46 AM

Originally Posted by Greg E

You are over complicating it.

I'm not aware of the history of Vishnu car. My memory isn't that good... If this was an issue with the stock ECU, then yes obviously the issue would still be present with the flash ecu. That's why I was saying to first eliminate the cause being the ECU/adaptor harness.

Couple things:
*Narrowband are not accurate nor are they consistant
*Front bank trims NEVER match the rear. One is always much richer than the other. There have been speculations into this for a while.

Because of O2 sensor location, going by one bank will never get an accurate AFR because it's trimming for both banks using only the rear as a guide. You're right in saying that it "shouldn't be" reading THAT far off but I've seen it happen before. It's quite common for a motor to run rich when disabling the front NB.

In either case, the car should still start and idle like stock because the 02s aren't used for at least the first 10 seconds after the motor is started. Bad, mix-matched or even leaky o2s won't cause ruff starts.

Checked under my car after reading this and sure enough, my WBo2 sensor was placed to only read the rear bank. Perhaps on my stock ecu the front was the one running much richer which is why I never noticed anything?

Regardless, I haven't plugged the old ecu back in yet to test the wiring or if the starting issue goes away. But I did confirm I have a federal car with a federal harness so all wiring should be set in that regard.

**Vishnu** · 09-06-2012, 09:14 PM

95 ECU fires up perfectly and WB02 is holding between 14.6 and 14.9.

So the symptoms are basically with starting. once it's started it runs rich according to the rear bank.

the DTC's pulled before switching back to the old ECU were:
P0135 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1.
P0141 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2.
P0443 EVAP System Purge Control Valve circuit.
P0446 EVAP System Vent Control.
P0403 EGR Solenoid.
P1104 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid.
P1105 Fuel Pressure Solenoid.

Considering I did a vac reduction and am running EBC, I can understand the last 5 showing up.

The only thing I could think of is the wiring harness is miswired somewhere, unless you guys can come up with something different.

**Greg E** · 09-06-2012, 10:04 PM

I was afraid of that. Front/rear O2 sensor wires are probably switched.

Disable bits 13, 14 and 15 of periphery 2 and that should take care of the rest of your CELs.

I have no idea why the car will start rough. Unless your plugs are fouled/ruined.

**Kx1984** · 09-06-2012, 10:26 PM

Greg i keep getting random cylinder misfire codes

im not tuned yet but i have new plugs wire and coils
say some misfire bits in one of the peripheries wasnt sure if i should turn them off

also any word on V2

Kx

**dferguson** · 09-06-2012, 10:31 PM

Greg,I hate to bother you but was just wondering if you have had any luck with the active exhaust code? Or should I try to rewire it around the ECM?I know u been busy just thought I would check in,and by the way I got my 91 flashed and all the scaling and latency numbers set and it is smooth and runs great by installing my WB in the front bank and turning that bit off.
Thanks Greg I appreciate it,will be sending you another token of my appreciation real soon.

**Greg E** · 09-06-2012, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by Kx1984

Greg i keep getting random cylinder misfire codes

im not tuned yet but i have new plugs wire and coils
say some misfire bits in one of the peripheries wasnt sure if i should turn them off

also any word on V2

Kx

The code is smart enough to know when your timing is off or if you have low compression. Which mis-fire code are you seeing? There are 7 codes. One for each cylinder and another for a "general misfire".

**Greg E** · 09-06-2012, 10:35 PM

Originally Posted by dferguson

Greg,I hate to bother you but was just wondering if you have had any luck with the active exhaust code? Or should I try to rewire it around the ECM?I know u been busy just thought I would check in,and by the way I got my 91 flashed and all the scaling and latency numbers set and it is smooth and runs great by installing my WB in the front bank and turning that bit off.
Thanks Greg I appreciate it,will be sending you another token of my appreciation real soon.

I have it coded. I re-wrote the stock code so it functioned simpler.

Pin 75 is the input pin from the dash and pin 7 is the output to the AE module.