So who wants their ECU's "Chromed"?

[CoopKill]

What is the benefit of returning to stock controller?

[JasonY]

To be able to hopefully control boost by speed(ghetto traction control) in the future and to be able to cut boost and timing if a knock threshold is exceeded.

Jason

[mjannusch]

I'd only switch to ECU controlled boost if it could be inverted so that the solenoid works like an EBC does and only passed pressure to the wastegate when the boost target is hit. The stock-type setup with intake pressure always going to the wastegates and the boost solenoid acting as a bleeder is typically laggier than the EBC method.

[iceorphen]

A wrench got thrown into my plans and im now going to be using my 91 instead of my 94 with the flashECU. I will be using a 94 motor with cam and cas.

Besides a new harness for 91>98 do i need anything else? Ive been focusing on 2g setup so the only thing that caught my eye was the fan needs to be wired differently.

[aaronatstate]

A wrench got thrown into my plans and im now going to be using my 91 instead of my 94 with the flashECU. I will be using a 94 motor with cam and cas.

Besides a new harness for 91>98 do i need anything else? Ive been focusing on 2g setup so the only thing that caught my eye was the fan needs to be wired differently.

Take the wiring harness from the 94 and put it in the 91. Problem solved

[Greg E]

I'd only switch to ECU controlled boost if it could be inverted so that the solenoid works like an EBC does and only passed pressure to the wastegate when the boost target is hit. The stock-type setup with intake pressure always going to the wastegates and the boost solenoid acting as a bleeder is typically laggier than the EBC method.

Can you measure the resistance of your EBC solenoid? If it's between 36 and 44ohms you can wire it into the stock plug BCS and the ECU can handle it.

To be honest, the lag isn't THAT bad. Remember, if you have the boost come on too fast, you are in danger of overshooting your target boost.

[99 vr4]

I'm running a Greddy EBC, and intend on switching back to a boost control solenoid once I get all my 99 hardware together and in the car. Do you know if our cars work with the Evo X BCS or other aftermarket 3 port BCS's? Or is our stock one capable of handling higher boost ranges? Right now I have a spare stock Evo X one sitting in my garage, and I'd rather not drop the $15-$20 on a vr4 one if I don't need to.

Ok . . . the stock boost solenoid WILL NOT work under higher boost. It just can not bleed enough air wuickly enough. Any BCS will work as long as the following two conditions are met:

It does not draw MORE than 400 mA - I think ALL mitsubishi solenoids will pass this test. If you don't know, you can measure it. Jsut use your volt meter to measure the current while connecting the BCS directly to your car battery.

It is normally closed and opens when voltage is applied

I think I al going to get rid of my ebc also to return to stock boost control. I have one from a 98 eclipse, can it be used? Any other options to use as a viable replacement?

See Above

What is the benefit of returning to stock controller?

Ohhhh . . . there are many. First the boost table is load based . . . not pressure based. This means you will get a more linear V8 power pull . . . a little harder to tune as you need to know what the max load your engine can take before knock happens . . . and you will notice that the boost pressure will fluctuate . . . but it is nice.

Then there is the fact that there will be multiple boost tables - this is a hold over in the engine code from active exhaust. On the older cars, the active exhaust triggered different tables because the less restrictive exaust change the flow dynamics. Just like on an old school V8, when you went to headers and an open exhaust you needed to retune your carbs . . . same conditions apply. BUT you can set the additional tables for two stage boost. Just like the Greddy.

Launch control boost and speed boost. Keep the boost lower until the car is moving . . . then up the boost.

I have said enough as Greg has not YET released this version . . . sorry Greg

Oh and the MOST important feature . . . there are mutliple boost tables based upon octance levels. IF you use an aftermarket boost controller, when there is knock, the ECU pulls timing hard . . . mainly because small increments don't effect the knock if the boost stays the same. Remember changes in boost effect knock the most.

I'd only switch to ECU controlled boost if it could be inverted so that the solenoid works like an EBC does and only passed pressure to the wastegate when the boost target is hit. The stock-type setup with intake pressure always going to the wastegates and the boost solenoid acting as a bleeder is typically laggier than the EBC method.

Not true. The factory ECU is equipped for this. Also there is the fact that on the factory system, a BCS failure resorts to waste gate pressure so you don't blow your shit.

A wrench got thrown into my plans and im now going to be using my 91 instead of my 94 with the flashECU. I will be using a 94 motor with cam and cas.

Besides a new harness for 91>98 do i need anything else? Ive been focusing on 2g setup so the only thing that caught my eye was the fan needs to be wired differently.

Well . . . I would not switch the entire wiring harness . . . but you will need to switch the engine harness. Like I said on the other board, there are the issues with the single CAM/CAS splitting into two seperate sensors. Also there is the issue with O2 sensors IF the 94 is a CALI engine. You will need to wire the fans, my harness has the wiring for that (an extension to the relay box with nifty automotive grade nylon expanded sleeving). The extension connects to the ECU adapter harness. Remember, package deal.

Can you measure the resistance of your EBC solenoid? If it's between 36 and 44ohms you can wire it into the stock plug BCS and the ECU can handle it.

To be honest, the lag isn't THAT bad. Remember, if you have the boost come on too fast, you are in danger of overshooting your target boost.

Greg . . . the max draw is 400mA. The BCS was specified at a voltage of 14.4 v DC so that it did not exceed 400 mA.

That being said, ANY BCS that is 36 ohms or greater will work just fine. If it not at least 36 ohms, then it will need an inline resistor to add up to 36 ohms. You will need a 1 watt resistor as 1/2 watt is just a little too small.

[99 vr4]

Hey just a quick note for all those that are swapping to the flashable setup. When you receive a new Clone, it has a STOCK Mitsubishi ROM. Make changes to the MAF and Injector tables if you changed them in your car and test everything BEFORE you flash Chrome. Then flash Chrome and test that. Then wire in anything else like a LCDBC. Always change one thing at a time so that you can be sure when some thing does not work what it was that caused the problem.

[Vishnu]

Ok . . . the stock boost solenoid WILL NOT work under higher boost. It just can not bleed enough air wuickly enough. Any BCS will work as long as the following two conditions are met:

It does not draw MORE than 400 mA - I think ALL mitsubishi solenoids will pass this test. If you don't know, you can measure it. Jsut use your volt meter to measure the current while connecting the BCS directly to your car battery.

It is normally closed and opens when voltage is applied

Now I know this line of logic is highly flawed, but I guess it never hurts to ask. If all Mitsubishi solenoids pass this test, would I be able to swap in any aftermarket BCS that would work on my Evo X as a direct replacement for it's stock BCS? In the event I want to handle more boost than that solenoid is willing to give me.

I'll definitely test it out and post up the results once I find it in my pile of parts.

[99 vr4]

Now I know this line of logic is highly flawed, but I guess it never hurts to ask. If all Mitsubishi solenoids pass this test, would I be able to swap in any aftermarket BCS that would work on my Evo X as a direct replacement for it's stock BCS? In the event I want to handle more boost than that solenoid is willing to give me.

I'll definitely test it out and post up the results once I find it in my pile of parts.

Yes. I still recommend you test the current draw with a meter... But yes any direct replacement for a mitsu should be ok.