Overheating with TD05 turbochargers

[IPD]

wow. yeah trans cooler should NOT go in front when you have fmic/rad combo there. c3's 2"+ fan cooler is what i intend to use for my trans.

[Tigchamp]

Does your front wastegate run under the car or something? Pretty sure a "U" j pipe is all you need to adapt to the ETS piping. I'd hate to say it but ill be "that guy" that tells you straight up and says, surprised you're having several issues with that kit. 3sx TD-05 turbo kit was the cheapest kit ever made and sold for a 3S. I've installed a few kits and quite disappointingly eventually saw every last one fail. Oil line failures, headers cracking, lots of rework, and china turbos exploding on dynos. All ties back to the cheap thing.

I don't know if you realize only two people have ever put down legit numbers on that kit. Ninja and some guy with BFT's. I don't think they sell it anymore either because of QC. All the big hitters have moved to a better collector design, V-bands, and just an better overall design in general. Surprisingly the only guys with issues with this or that are always the ones with that kit. Seems ironic.

Never had any issues with my 3SX tdo5 kit, and the cheap chinese 16G's worked fine untill part of my cylinder 5 piston land went through them, sure I have re-welded the rear manifold but that is as much due to the turbo being slamed into the bulkhead due to worn engine mounts.
Being in the UK, I dont have any issues with over heating but then I have the OEM radiator and fans & having a gen 1, I refused to lose my front fogs so I got Dejon side mounts.
Jeff

[PaulL]

Never had any issues with my 3SX tdo5 kit, and the cheap chinese 16G's worked fine untill part of my cylinder 5 piston land went through them, sure I have re-welded the rear manifold but that is as much due to the turbo being slamed into the bulkhead due to worn engine mounts.
Being in the UK, I dont have any issues with over heating but then I have the OEM radiator and fans & having a gen 1, I refused to lose my front fogs so I got Dejon side mounts.
Jeff

I've read some threads stating its a good idea to add some support to the rear manifold to prevent it from cracking. What's your take on this?

[GTOJOE]

I just fully recharged my A/C, so that system works fine. There really is no where else to relocate the condensor, but its obvious that the added heat coming off the condenser is making the difference.

Make sure it's not over full also. I vaguely recall something about overfull system will run hot.........

[Alex3000gt]

Everyone just stop.

If you have fans that are ON and spinning in the right direction, a system full of coolant and an OEM radiator - there is no reason you should be over heating.

With most bumpers you are forcing all of the hot air leaving your front mount intercooler directly into your radiator. There needs to be a reasonable temperature delta (~100F) between the engine coolant and air entering the radiator in order for heat transfer to occur. You are diminishing this temperature delta with the hot air leaving the intercooler. This should not be a mystery. You do not need a front mount the size of your radiator to run 11s in the 1/4 mile. By placing a 4" deep front mount intercooler directly in the airstream of your radiator you are introducing air that is much hotter than ambient into your radiator. There is a reason the stock intercoolers are not in the path of the air stream. Your 200-220F coolant cannot effectively transfer heat with 180F air. It just is not going to happen.

Either find a way to get cool ambient air into your radiator (ducting, smaller FMIC, changing to larger SMICs, larger bumper opening) or sell me your car so it can be properly taken care of.

This shouldn't be this difficult. I do this for a living. I have seen how easily overheating issues on proto and mule level vehicles can be solved by increasing grille area or adding some plastic ducting.

[MR2]

Yeeep, I pretty much said that.

[J. Fast]

Everyone just stop.

If you have fans that are ON and spinning in the right direction, a system full of coolant and an OEM radiator - there is no reason you should be over heating.

With most bumpers you are forcing all of the hot air leaving your front mount intercooler directly into your radiator. There needs to be a reasonable temperature delta (~100F) between the engine coolant and air entering the radiator in order for heat transfer to occur. You are diminishing this temperature delta with the hot air leaving the intercooler. This should not be a mystery. You do not need a front mount the size of your radiator to run 11s in the 1/4 mile. By placing a 4" deep front mount intercooler directly in the airstream of your radiator you are introducing air that is much hotter than ambient into your radiator. There is a reason the stock intercoolers are not in the path of the air stream. Your 200-220F coolant cannot effectively transfer heat with 180F air. It just is not going to happen.

Either find a way to get cool ambient air into your radiator (ducting, smaller FMIC, changing to larger SMICs, larger bumper opening) or sell me your car so it can be properly taken care of.

This shouldn't be this difficult. I do this for a living. I have seen how easily overheating issues on proto and mule level vehicles can be solved by increasing grille area or adding some plastic ducting.

Man, you're loosin' it. Not stock issues. Mule car is irrelevant. Everything is systemic. Cooler air charge > cooler AIT > cooler AIT > cooler block temp > cooler block temp > less stress on radiator > less stress on radiator > less stress on oil cooler.

I have a 700 whp TD-05 3/S street car (soon to be 800whp street car) and have worked thru every imaginable cooling issue. I am not a mechanic, I'm an engineer, a fabricator, a builder, a racer, and a racecar crew chief. I would consider my advice to be expert in the TD-05 matter.

[J. Fast]

Oh, and at one point in time I ran the biggest SMIC's ever made, the most efficient cores, GENE's huge SMIC's. I over ran them and over heated from AIT charge temp. I switched to a Treadstone core and smashed it up against the radiator with less than 1/2 inch of clearance between them and viola, 30 more WHP at the same boost and 30 degrees cooler AIT and no more over heat.

FMIC isn't the problem, it's bending the car around the issues and moving shit.

[MR2]

So your saying having the FMIC there has nothing to do with overheating?...couse that's what your statement is coming across as.

too many people who do extended driving with large FMIC's have had issues with them.

the "most efficient cores" depends on how they are used.

[J. Fast]

The overheating issues have to do with people not being elastic. If you're not willing to compromise moving shit and want a car to run and look like stock don't put on aftermarket manifolds, 600whp turbo kits, and undersized FMIC's, pretty simple.

Yeah, I'm saying that. I have 200 more whp and am running only one fan. I can let my car idle for an hour and the needle stays pegged 1/3 of the way up. I think I got it licked.