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Thread: Overheating with TD05 turbochargers

  1. #61
    Thermal Engineer- Mmbr Since:8/2005 verified
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    You in Michigan?

    Care to have a thermal engineer take a look?

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    Advance your timing, and lean out your tune. See if that does anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex3000gt View Post
    You in Michigan?

    Care to have a thermal engineer take a look?
    If you have time I am in michigan in Romulus by metro airport. Right of I94
    Nathaniel Colton Orr Born 12/23/2011 6lbs 13oz, 20 inches healthy as can be for being early!!!!!!!!!
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    92 Stealth TT R/T
    Mods: t30 ball bearing turbos, IPS FMIC, AEM V2.0 standalone, Tial BOV, Ksport struts, Tublar upper rear control arms, VOLKS 18 inch 2 piece wheels, AEM Wideband O2, AEM True Boost, 780 injector, IPS fuel rails, AEROMOTIVE FPR, FM Oil cooler, RPS Flywheel, Kevlar timing belt, hose candy silcone lines and fittings, krank vent system, single pass 3sx radiator soon as I finish getting all parts installed in trans, 6 speed trans with dog box and Torison Diff ,and Kaaz rear diff

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    Has anyone tried this. I had an idea from my days as an aircraft mechanic what if I build instead of a shroud and pulling fan on engine side build more of a heat shield and duct that would have the fan push thru the radiator and directed under the car. Hopefully eliminating the heat transfer from front t30 and header and hopefully releasing the trapped hot air coming from the fans

  5. #65
    Banned J. Fast's Avatar
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    I don't think you should push air under. The main cab of the 3/S is pretty flat. When you redirect high pressure under the car you generate lift. The scary part about it is when you bottom out at high speed and squeeze the air pressure under the car it can lead porpoising. Since I know you understand arcriaft mechanics, you understand porpoising means the nose comes up. Its possible under certain driving conditions that you'll be generating downforce on the rear wing and lift at the nose of the car when you compress the suspension from a dip or bump on the highway and the front tires will come off the ground. It you're going fast enough you'll lift like an airplane wing and mother nature will take the wheel.

    Directing high pressure under the wheels and the car in general is not a good idea.

    My .02

  6. #66
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    to an extent. the idea is to have higher-speed airflow under the car, which will create low pressure & improve downforce. that higher-speed area will also do a better job of "sucking" hot air away from the front of the car.

  7. #67
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    What are you doing tonight around 8:30? 9?

    3/S buddy and I are dropping off a friend at the airport!

    PM me, we can stop by. We are both thermal engineers.

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    well worked on it all day pulled the 3sx single pass radiator out and put a stock one in . I filled the 3sx rad with water and it took for ever to get to the lower outlet. I pressurized it no leaks but it is restricting flow. put the oe one in the car it stayed cooler better and longer with the driver side factory fan moved to pass and my low profile flexalite on drivers side. but still got hot while driving. I do not think oem rad has enough cooling capability. I also talked to 3sx about their rad and they claim of knowing of restriction issue but assured me mine was not one in the production run with issue even though it obiviously is one. Their next statement no warranty or exchange.

    Hopefully Alex3000gt may see something if he gets to stop by and look at it

  10. #69
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    A few findings tonight:
    1) Radiator fans do come on and are blowing in the right direction.
    2) Coolant system is completely degassed.
    3) Thermostat is opening and staying open.
    4) Car can idle and stay at operating temp.
    5) Car can drive in vacuum and stay at operating temp.


    Here is where the issue lies, when building boost the temperature starts to climb. If you stay in boost the car will overheat. In my opinion the new front mount intercooler which blocks the entire grille is not allowing any ambient air to enter the radiator. I believe that the air exiting the intercooler is already heatsoaked (too hot) for the radiator to effectively transfer heat.

    The solution, in my mind, is to either duct cool ambient air into the airstream of the radiator or downsize the front mount or both. We gave propbreaker a few ideas to test this theory that require little effort and no money.

    Let us know what you find!

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    Quote Originally Posted by propbreaker View Post
    well worked on it all day pulled the 3sx single pass radiator out and put a stock one in . I filled the 3sx rad with water and it took for ever to get to the lower outlet. I pressurized it no leaks but it is restricting flow. put the oe one in the car it stayed cooler better and longer with the driver side factory fan moved to pass and my low profile flexalite on drivers side. but still got hot while driving. I do not think oem rad has enough cooling capability. I also talked to 3sx about their rad and they claim of knowing of restriction issue but assured me mine was not one in the production run with issue even though it obiviously is one. Their next statement no warranty or exchange.

    Hopefully Alex3000gt may see something if he gets to stop by and look at it
    Interesting, I never even heard of a restricting issue. Is this a common thing, or did they just have a bad batch. I have a 3sx radiator as well, and although I have only had it getting a little warm when the a/c is turned on, it would be interesting to know if the 3SX radiator actually does restrict the coolant flow. Maybe somebody can test things.

    I guess there is now another person whose stock radiator works better.

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