Overheating with TD05 turbochargers

[HilbillyHomeboy]

I went from slim blue flex-a-lites to the Perma-cools, and there was no comparison at all. Now, I did change from puller to pusher and that may have played a role as well. I know which ones you're seeing in the kit form, that's not what I bought. Those are like $400+. Mine were two simple electric fans that were modified slightly to mount. They were rated around 3,000 cfm each. Looking now, I don't see them on Summit's site anymore.

Jeremy

[PaulL]

Thanks for the response. I have a set of slim blue flex-a-lites as well that I'm trying to get off the car this week.

[PaulL]

Just ordered a Derale 16112 fan, and will try running 1 of those and a stock a/c fan, and we'll see how this works.

[PaulL]

I am now running a stock condesor fan on the passenger side, and a derale (SPAL) 1325 cfm fan on the drivers side. Went for a test drive today. I still need to seal off the back where the viper hood is open to help with temps, but driving at 50 mph, the A/C on, and outside temps at 87 degrees, the coolant temps seemd to stay between 200-210. However, when I was idling for a while with the a/c on, it very slowly crept up to 210 degrees before I shut the A/C off and the temps began to start falling. It's not exactly where I'd want it to be just yet, so I need to do a few more things to make it more reliable.

I know making some ducting helps when driving, but would it help with idling as well? I still have a second a/c fan (but can't fit it) if I ever decided to try an oem size radiator. But I figured the 3SX radiator would do a much better job of cooling, even if I can only fit one condensor fan (and use an aftermarket for the other fan) instead of using two of them.

[MR2]

install in front of rad as push

ducting makes a huge difference if you removed the stock stuff, if you have a FMIC you are going to be prone to this long term honestly

[JasonY]

I wouldnt worry about 210. If it keeps climbing to 220 then id shut the a/c down.

Jason

[PaulL]

install in front of rad as push

ducting makes a huge difference if you removed the stock stuff, if you have a FMIC you are going to be prone to this long term honestly

Patryn has stated that his temps run 180-185 with the AC turned on at idle, and running an FMIC. Personally, I would think I would have more problems moving than idling since there is some opening around the FMIC. The fans should be able to draw a bunch of air from around that.

I may have to try one of those splitters this summer though, if it really does help drop the temperature.

[PaulL]

I wouldnt worry about 210. If it keeps climbing to 220 then id shut the a/c down.

Jason

I'll give it an extra 10 degrees next time. Although there will be days here that will get up into the upper 90s and low 100s with very high humidity. I'm trying to give myself a little bit of room since I know conditions for overheating will get worse as we get further into the summer.

[JasonY]

I was only impying letting it run to see if it levels off or if the fans truly cant keep up.

Jason

[PaulL]

I was reading in the other forums that GTWizard recommended cutting the crashbar (and welding it somehow to keep its strength and purpose) to allow more air into the upper part of the FMIC and radiator. Any opinions?

I will probably remove my crashbar and trim the part off the bumper where there are bolt holes that attach the bumper to the crash bar, just to see if it makes a difference in temperature. If so, I may look to take my crash bar to the local machine shop to have them trim it up and strengthen it. Ducting will also be taking place as well.

I still have the stock piece thats below the intercooler where the factory ducting would attach to. I will probably use that to attach custom ducting too.

Any recommendations for material to use for making ducting? I know I could always use a thin sheet of aluminum, but I would rather use some kind of plastic. What could I use?