i have seen alot of guys skip the head rebuild completely when doing an overhaul. maybe what he did ? idk for me (maybe because i have done it a bunch ) it seems hard to install vss wrong
i have seen alot of guys skip the head rebuild completely when doing an overhaul. maybe what he did ? idk for me (maybe because i have done it a bunch ) it seems hard to install vss wrong
Did a cold compression test yesterday since my exhaust manifold and turbo are off the car.
Dry compression test:
1) 135
2) 135
3) 140
4) 130
Seems about right for a cold motor. Warm numbers are typically in the 150s.
Went ahead and did a wet test but the numbers are kind of meaningless to me since the motor was cold.
1) 190
2) 175
3) 170
4) 170
Ultimately I need to do a leakdown test. Unfortunately I don't have a leakdown tester so I'm going to make my own. I can't justify paying $100 for a new one and the $40 Harbor Freight leakdown testers have terrible reviews.

the jegs one is $70 and works for me.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
compression looks good for a cold motor
Got a leakdown tester from HF and replaced the gauge with a Kobalt pressure gauge from Lowes. Had to get a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adapter to get the gauge to fit. Replaced the crappy HF % gauge with my new one and put the exhaust manifold, turbo, and intake pipes back on the car but by the time everything was ready it was past 9:00 PM and I didn't want to wake the neighbors with my noisy car and air compressor. Hopefully I'll get around to performing the test tomorrow as I will be going out of town as soon as I leave work Thursday, so I'd have to wait until the following Monday to get the test done. Not a big deal but I'd like to know before the weekend so I can have more time to plan and source necessary parts.
1994 Mariana Blue Pearl Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
DR-650s and supporting, PST CFDS, Volk GT-Cs, Tein Flex, among other things
Feb. 06 3SI ROTM - Best AWD BRG 07 - 3rd Place 2G 07 3/S National Gathering - People's Choice BRG 08
BRG 2011 Total Package - NG11 Car Show 1st Place
2010 Space Gray E90 335i M-Sport 6MT - 400whp/450wtq
2002 Jet Black E53 X5 4.4i AWD - Bavarian Workhorse
Well, if I do any work tonight it will only be a leakdown test which I can do on my own, and I'll have to be done before 7 because that's when RCIA meets at church every Wednesday (didn't realize I left that part out above).I will be going home early today so I should be able to get it done.
That being said, I will definitely need a second hand next week to do head work on the car as I expect the leakdown test to show favorable (less than 20% leakage) numbers, indicating valve stem seal leakage.
Leakdown test results:
1) 7%
2) 9%
3) 6%
4) 6%
Checked PCV valve and it is functioning properly. Pulled the valve cover and everything looked new or reconditioned as the previous owner said. All signs point to valve stem seals. Maybe he used the wrong ones?
I'm thinking of just pulling the head to at least confirm that there's not some hidden problem in the block I'm missing.
Definitely sounds like bad valve stem seals, based on the oil pouring out of the head. If there was a problem with the block wouldn't you see bad leakdown numbers?
R135
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