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Thread: Project WDE Talon

  1. #311
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    i have seen alot of guys skip the head rebuild completely when doing an overhaul. maybe what he did ? idk for me (maybe because i have done it a bunch ) it seems hard to install vss wrong

  2. #312
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    Did a cold compression test yesterday since my exhaust manifold and turbo are off the car.

    Dry compression test:

    1) 135
    2) 135
    3) 140
    4) 130

    Seems about right for a cold motor. Warm numbers are typically in the 150s.

    Went ahead and did a wet test but the numbers are kind of meaningless to me since the motor was cold.

    1) 190
    2) 175
    3) 170
    4) 170

    Ultimately I need to do a leakdown test. Unfortunately I don't have a leakdown tester so I'm going to make my own. I can't justify paying $100 for a new one and the $40 Harbor Freight leakdown testers have terrible reviews.

  3. #313
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    the jegs one is $70 and works for me.

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  4. #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    the jegs one is $70 and works for me.
    After doing more research it turns out the problem with the HF one is the % gauge. Replace it with a proper 100 psi gauge and it's a great leakdown tester. I think I'll go this route as with a 20% coupon I can get it for $35.

  5. #315
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    compression looks good for a cold motor

  6. #316
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    Got a leakdown tester from HF and replaced the gauge with a Kobalt pressure gauge from Lowes. Had to get a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adapter to get the gauge to fit. Replaced the crappy HF % gauge with my new one and put the exhaust manifold, turbo, and intake pipes back on the car but by the time everything was ready it was past 9:00 PM and I didn't want to wake the neighbors with my noisy car and air compressor. Hopefully I'll get around to performing the test tomorrow as I will be going out of town as soon as I leave work Thursday, so I'd have to wait until the following Monday to get the test done. Not a big deal but I'd like to know before the weekend so I can have more time to plan and source necessary parts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigTyla View Post
    Got a leakdown tester from HF and replaced the gauge with a Kobalt pressure gauge from Lowes. Had to get a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adapter to get the gauge to fit. Replaced the crappy HF % gauge with my new one and put the exhaust manifold, turbo, and intake pipes back on the car but by the time everything was ready it was past 9:00 PM and I didn't want to wake the neighbors with my noisy car and air compressor. Hopefully I'll get around to performing the test tomorrow as I will be going out of town as soon as I leave work Thursday, so I'd have to wait until the following Monday to get the test done. Not a big deal but I'd like to know before the weekend so I can have more time to plan and source necessary parts.
    What time do I need to be over? How about 6?
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  8. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by VR4Rob View Post
    What time do I need to be over? How about 6?
    Well, if I do any work tonight it will only be a leakdown test which I can do on my own, and I'll have to be done before 7 because that's when RCIA meets at church every Wednesday (didn't realize I left that part out above). I will be going home early today so I should be able to get it done.

    That being said, I will definitely need a second hand next week to do head work on the car as I expect the leakdown test to show favorable (less than 20% leakage) numbers, indicating valve stem seal leakage.

  9. #319
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    Leakdown test results:

    1) 7%
    2) 9%
    3) 6%
    4) 6%

    Checked PCV valve and it is functioning properly. Pulled the valve cover and everything looked new or reconditioned as the previous owner said. All signs point to valve stem seals. Maybe he used the wrong ones?

    I'm thinking of just pulling the head to at least confirm that there's not some hidden problem in the block I'm missing.

  10. #320
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    Definitely sounds like bad valve stem seals, based on the oil pouring out of the head. If there was a problem with the block wouldn't you see bad leakdown numbers?
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