putting on timing belt, have couple of questions

[a2j]

well, it is my first timing belt change. so I guess I'll do it the right way, align the crank and do it they way I did it before. I'm pretty sure everything will stay aligned. because I tried moving everything several times, while camshafts will be aligned, the crank would be 1 tooth off.

[terrets]

Just make sure you crank it 3 times. Let it sit an hour, and crank it some more...First timing belts are fun . I did my first in Feburary on my vr4.

[a2j]

and while am at it, I'm doing others things including whats on my current avatar so for now I'm turning the crank by hand.

[blindmist]

I have timed about 15 6G72's. Start at the crank, pull the belt to the rear exhaust, then intake, then water pump, then front intake, exhaust, and back to the tensioner and crank. Here is the deal with the 1 tooth off on the crank deal. This is to compensate for the movement of the cams when you take the slack out of the belt when you rotate the tensioner over as tight as you can get it. The cams roll back (counter clockwise) just a bit. The slack you are taking up should be from the front cam to the tensioner. Before you even look at anything to see if it is lined up. Do 2 revolutions clockwise on the crank. Then check your crank and you should be spot on. I have slapped timing belts on a 6G72 in 5 mins and been done with it with this method.


Also, on mine, when I was pulling the belt from the crank to the rear exhaust, I would have to pull the cam 1 tooth back to get it on the mark, and the intake 1-2 teeth forward. The front head, both cams are going to want to jump on you. My best advice for this is to take a 17mm wrench and the t-belt that is around the rear cams and water pump. Put the belt on the cam, pull the belt over. Then turn the cam with the wrench and let it pop teeth on the belt until you have it in the correct position, then pull it over and around the front intake cam, and do the same thing. Once you are on all 4 cams, you should be able to push the tbelt onto the tensioner and be able to let it just sit for a second or two. Then proceed with what I stated ^^^^

Also, just to be certain, 1 tooth back on the crank would mean that you are on the tooth just to the right of the timing mark.

All you need to do this is a 17mm for the cams and the socket for the tensioner bolt. None of those stupid clips. I hate those.

[terrets]

Damn your good....Yes always turn it by hand

[a2j]

my tension is pretty tight. but if I would try to align crank shaft from "1 tooth off" position and move camshafts, wouldn't that make either cams or crank off? the only way I see it working is when I have some slack after rear exhaust cam and crank shaft sprocket. otherwise how do you move it without moving the cams while belt is on ?

[Steve '92ES]

So blindmist, basically you just do the whole thing backwards? Start at the crank then go back to front and pull any slack down from the cams rather than go front to back and pull slack up from the crank?

[blindmist]

So blindmist, basically you just do the whole thing backwards? Start at the crank then go back to front and pull any slack down from the cams rather than go front to back and pull slack up from the crank?

Correct. Works every time. The slack should be on the "front" of the belt before rolling the tensioner over with my method. In between the tensioner and front intake cam.

[Steve '92ES]

the only way I see it working is when I have some slack after rear exhaust cam and crank shaft sprocket

That's exactly correct. If you've got all the slack out don't worry about the one tooth. Just be sure you're not pulling the belt TOO tight while you're putting it on. Pull it enough that the teeth on the belt fall naturally into the cogs, but don't reef on it.

[blindmist]

Seriously, give my method a shot. It is by far the easiest I have come up with and it has worked on numerous occasions. I should also say, there has been a time where the rear exhaust cam didn't need to be popped 1 tooth when putting the belt on with my method. And if you don't have one of the adapter tools with the 2 prongs for the tensioner pulley, you really aren't doing it right and not getting enough slack out of the belt.

The main thing with my method is, have the crank back 1 tooth, and get all the cams in time with the slack on the front. Then take the slack out by rolling the tensioner clockwise. This will pull the cams off their marks(counter clockwise), but put them in time with the crank. After you have done 2 clockwise revolutions on the crank, set the crank in time this time, and all 4 cams should be in time as well.

The worst part about my method not working for you, is you are still where you started, an untimed engine.