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Thread: JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

  1. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4 View Post
    The only way to be sure you have no boost leaks is to pressure test. Even if it looks like you might not have any leaks...
    True. Just don't think it very likely with all new hoses and components.
    Quote Originally Posted by sergechronos View Post
    Well, couple obvious questions/points: You set the latencies for the 560s properly?
    Why hotwire and bigger injectors without an aftermarket FPR? On rail AEM solution should be cheap enough and work fine.
    Most importantly, why no wideband yet? I'd feel very uncomfortable with all that work and no wideband to monitor AFR, could even indicate your issue.
    Did you actually pressure test it or are you just assuming no leaks?
    There is conflicting information of 560 latencies but yes I believe they are correct. Agree AFPR would work fine but stock should also work fine. I do have a wideband, just didn't hook it up yet thinking I would pass smog first. Now I'm thinking I have to put it in just to get a basic tune.
    Quote Originally Posted by oohnoo View Post
    Ditto on getting yourself a wideband as soon as possible as you have no idea where your air/fuel is at. For all you know you could be flooding you new engine out and it'll wipe out the rings in no time.
    Yes I will put in the wideband before continuing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    just pull the plugs, you'll know if it is that rich.

    The ecu updates the trims once every 4 minutes, so it may take a while to see them settle. Yes, you can swap the pins IF they are backwards. My antero harness was correct.
    Will pull and check them hopefully tonight.
    Quote Originally Posted by CoopKill View Post
    Run the car with evoscan logging, select only the o2's front, and rear. Unplug the front o2 while running/logging, and see if the change is on the front bank. You will see it real time in evoscan.
    Thanks for the idea. I'm doubting the O2's are swapped since its a second gen and Antero built the harness, not me.

    EDIT: Just checked and I told Antero it was a Cali car. But I also told Brett it was a Cali car. So I'm thinking there is a real possibility that BOTH of them swapped the O2 wires for me. They will be backwards if that is the case.

    What I'm wondering about is the fuel map. I think I've read on here that the basic 2.0 ROM uses the stock map and that Greg doesn't change it due to liability. Is the stock map a reasonable starting point for my mods?
    Last edited by Jimvr4; 11-07-2013 at 04:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    I would do a boost leak just just to be sure, but you need to drive about 20 more minutes to see where the trims end up. If they continue going in opposite directions until they hit -12.5 and + 12.5 your o2 signal wires are swapped.
    FTO2 is real time correction, it's updated several times a second... The only thing you need from the long term trims is to note where they are, and add the value to the short term trim. STFT+LTFT=total(actual) fuel trim.

    The short term trims top out at +/-25%


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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4 View Post
    The only way to be sure you have no boost leaks is to pressure test. Even if it looks like you might not have any leaks...
    Agreed - they can pop up ANYWHERE.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RealMcCoy View Post
    FTO2 is real time correction, it's updated several times a second... The only thing you need from the long term trims is to note where they are, and add the value to the short term trim. STFT+LTFT=total(actual) fuel trim.

    The short term trims top out at +/-25%
    I know that, it is just easier and more consistent to go by the long term fuel trims and not rely on momentary feedback that may not be repeatable, but you can whatever you want.

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    The stock latencies for the 560s are a very good place to start.
    "Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson


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    I did verify the O2 sensors are wired correctly. Still need to add the wideband. I don't have a clue how to adjust the map though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    just pull the plugs, you'll know if it is that rich.

    The ecu updates the trims once every 4 minutes, so it may take a while to see them settle. Yes, you can swap the pins IF they are backwards. My antero harness was correct.
    Good info mate

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    Update time!

    Initial drive never reached temp. I did verify that the O2 sensors were not swapped. Subsequent test drives have pulled in the low trims to less than +5 / -5 and mid trims are less than +1 / -1. Warm idle is a bit erratic at times so I will be going through the procedure to adjust it to 750 or even 800 to see if that helps. Also she drove well enough that I finally got her down to the gas station 1.5 miles away which was the first time in a year!

    Sunday there was a local all Mitsubishi meet so I took her down and Chargerx3 rode with me for a few test loops around the parking lot. He thinks she's on the right track at this point. The car seems to run much better at higher revs. During the drive home she threatened to die a couple of times and I felt like I had to modulate the throttle at the lights.

    So current plan is adjust the idle and dial in the low and mid trims, complete the wideband install, and start tuning.

    Here's a pic from the meet, looks like white was the color of the day


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    Great! Good to see you driving it. I wonder if the idle thing is a mechanical issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    Update time!

    Initial drive never reached temp. I did verify that the O2 sensors were not swapped. Subsequent test drives have pulled in the low trims to less than +5 / -5 and mid trims are less than +1 / -1. Warm idle is a bit erratic at times so I will be going through the procedure to adjust it to 750 or even 800 to see if that helps. Also she drove well enough that I finally got her down to the gas station 1.5 miles away which was the first time in a year!

    Sunday there was a local all Mitsubishi meet so I took her down and Chargerx3 rode with me for a few test loops around the parking lot. He thinks she's on the right track at this point. The car seems to run much better at higher revs. During the drive home she threatened to die a couple of times and I felt like I had to modulate the throttle at the lights.

    So current plan is adjust the idle and dial in the low and mid trims, complete the wideband install, and start tuning.

    Here's a pic from the meet, looks like white was the color of the day

    LOVE IT!!!!

    One question, what is your BOV setup now? Same as before the incident?

    I will explain when you answer...

    Bob.
    95 Caracus Red Spyder VR4 (sold 6/12/21 )
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    92 Wheat Beige Metallic Stealth TT (sold 6/14/20 )

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    Oldest son - 94 Danube Blue VR4 (sold 10/19)
    Middle son - 93 Panama Green VR4

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