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Thread: JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

  1. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonY View Post
    AX6's dust like SOB's. Awesome pad though.

    Jason
    Hmm. Hope not too much more dust than the Porterfield R4S. I didn't feel like the stopping power on the R4S was up to par after I got the BMW daily driver. The brakes on that thing are incredible but they dust REALLY bad.

  2. #512
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    OK, alternator grounding is fixed after sanding the powder coat off the contact points of the mounting bracket. Alternator charging up to 14.6 volts now.

    First drive around the block and the car is very sluggish. Oil pressure looks good on the crappy stock gauge. Current mods are:

    DR-650 with 14 psi wastegates
    Stock MAF, IC pipes, IC, rebuilt TB
    Supra FP Hot Wired, 560cc inj, stock FPR, no gauge at this time
    Stock ignition, platinum NGK gapped to .032
    Stock catback, stock DP, rear precat gutted, 4 O2 sensors (cali spec)
    99 Clone ECU with Antero harness, injectors scaled
    Wideband not installed yet

    Plan is to get it drivable, emissions test, then change DP and start tuning. Posting up the log I got from the Tactrix 2.0 with micro SD. Does this thing sample fast enough to see the O2s cycle?
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  3. #513
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    Jim, first off what do you mean by sluggish? (lack of tune giving too much fuel?...if so, this is NOT a good thing...)

    Second, do you plan to add a REAL oil pressure gauge? (I have a ProSport in the Stealth and would not recommend that choice)....

    You probably know this, but this is probably the time to add a REAL FPR and gauge....

    Too bad you live in Commifonia.....

    Bob.

    EDIT: Time to update your sig as well!!!!
    95 Caracus Red Spyder VR4 (sold 6/12/21 )
    Cianci FG Viper Hood/Aerocatch Pins
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    92 Wheat Beige Metallic Stealth TT (sold 6/14/20 )

    OhioSpyderman Short Shifter (in both!!!)
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    Oldest son - 94 Danube Blue VR4 (sold 10/19)
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    I would do a boost leak just just to be sure, but you need to drive about 20 more minutes to see where the trims end up. If they continue going in opposite directions until they hit -12.5 and + 12.5 your o2 signal wires are swapped.
    Last edited by Chris@Rvengeperformance; 11-06-2013 at 05:52 PM.

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    Thanks Forest. Pretty sure there's no major boost leak. All the hoses are new silicon and clamped on.

    Is the 20 minutes just to make sure its in closed loop? If the signal wires are swapped what's the easiest way to correct it? I'm guessing release the pins from Antero's harness and swap them there.

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    The only way to be sure you have no boost leaks is to pressure test. Even if it looks like you might not have any leaks...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    OK, alternator grounding is fixed after sanding the powder coat off the contact points of the mounting bracket. Alternator charging up to 14.6 volts now.

    First drive around the block and the car is very sluggish. Oil pressure looks good on the crappy stock gauge. Current mods are:

    DR-650 with 14 psi wastegates
    Stock MAF, IC pipes, IC, rebuilt TB
    Supra FP Hot Wired, 560cc inj, stock FPR, no gauge at this time
    Stock ignition, platinum NGK gapped to .032
    Stock catback, stock DP, rear precat gutted, 4 O2 sensors (cali spec)
    99 Clone ECU with Antero harness, injectors scaled
    Wideband not installed yet

    Plan is to get it drivable, emissions test, then change DP and start tuning. Posting up the log I got from the Tactrix 2.0 with micro SD. Does this thing sample fast enough to see the O2s cycle?
    Well, couple obvious questions/points: You set the latencies for the 560s properly?
    Why hotwire and bigger injectors without an aftermarket FPR? On rail AEM solution should be cheap enough and work fine.
    Most importantly, why no wideband yet? I'd feel very uncomfortable with all that work and no wideband to monitor AFR, could even indicate your issue.
    Did you actually pressure test it or are you just assuming no leaks?
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
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    Ditto on getting yourself a wideband as soon as possible as you have no idea where your air/fuel is at. For all you know you could be flooding you new engine out and it'll wipe out the rings in no time.
    "Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"

    ----------------[2007 Ride of the Year.................................. 3.5 Stroker I did. w/DBB DR1000's

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    just pull the plugs, you'll know if it is that rich.

    The ecu updates the trims once every 4 minutes, so it may take a while to see them settle. Yes, you can swap the pins IF they are backwards. My antero harness was correct.

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    Run the car with evoscan logging, select only the o2's front, and rear. Unplug the front o2 while running/logging, and see if the change is on the front bank. You will see it real time in evoscan.

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
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