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Thread: Base to VR4 Swap + Complete Restoration

  1. #121
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    Here is yesterdays batch of parts. I am not so sure if I like the shade of black on the cast parts.










    Learn how to Powder Coat at www.powdercoatguide.com.

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    Just curious, but have you ever used High-temp Lab Metal to fill any imperfections prior to powder-coating?

    I recently bought a can of the stuff & have had really good results with it. Pretty much will dribble into the defect (once thinned), then let it air dry for 24-hrs, & finally heat cure it for an hour to finish up the repair process.
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  3. #123
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    I havent used it yet. I used JB weld to fill a bunch of pits in an oil pan and that worked well although it took a while. If I did it again, I would order some KL primer. I havent really run into any parts that had serious imperfections that would need the lab metal but I would be interested to see your results.

    I was thinking about getting the primer and shooting a couple coats on a cast iron piece like the ones above and see what it would look like to completely smooth the casting out.

  4. #124
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    Glad to see you working on this again keep it up, I love checking this thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post
    Glad to see you working on this again keep it up, I love checking this thread.
    Thanks. Honestly you are one of my motivators to go work on my car. There has been more than one occasion while I am sitting on the computer doing nothing, debating whether I should go out in the garage, and I think "green lantern wants some updates, better go out there. No joke, lol.
    Last edited by 99ishVR-4; 09-17-2013 at 06:34 PM.

  6. #126
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    Really like the powdercoating and how smooth you got those parts.

  7. #127
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    I'm sure you guys are getting tired of the flat black color, I am too. Luckily, I just ran out so I will be going back to a more interesting color again.








    I pulled out a batch of parts to do today and they all need some work before coated. The turbo water lines are sitting in Ospho rust remover since there is no way I would be able to blast the insides of them. I plugged the ends of the turbo oil lines and poured some gas down in them to break up any crap in there. My thermostat housing is quite rusty inside after sitting this long so I am debating what the best method is to tackle that. I may just buy a better condition one as all of the nipples are deformed from rust and only 2 nipples are available from Mitsubishi.

    Last edited by 99ishVR-4; 09-17-2013 at 06:32 PM.

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    I've got one for sale, although you might not be satisfied with the condition and will have to strip the paint off.

    http://www.3sgto.org/parts-sale/1287...t-housing.html

  9. #129
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    Couldn't just tap and thread some new ones? Maybe even AN fittings?
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99ishVR-4 View Post
    I pulled out a batch of parts to do today and they all need some work before coated. The turbo water lines are sitting in Ospho rust remover since there is no way I would be able to blast the insides of them. I plugged the ends of the turbo oil lines and poured some gas down in them to break up any crap in there. My thermostat housing is quite rusty inside after sitting this long so I am debating what the best method is to tackle that. I may just buy a better condition one as all of the nipples are deformed from rust and only 2 nipples are available from Mitsubishi.

    I cleaned the inside of mine using the home made soda blaster. Worked perfectly. Wasn't difficult to clean either.

    I also sanded and coated the nipples with the rest of the part.


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