Page 3 of 19 FirstFirst 1234513 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 190

Thread: Base to VR4 Swap + Complete Restoration

  1. #21
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2005

    Posts
    293
    Thanks
    13
    Thanked 23 Times in 18 Posts
    I am proud of this piece so more pictures! Although once again, the black chrome came out too dark. Also the bracket on the front that supports the shifter cable will have to be painted as it is actually 2 different pieces held together with rubber and that probably wouldn't go over very well in the oven.











    Learn how to Powder Coat at www.powdercoatguide.com.

  2. #22
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2005

    Posts
    293
    Thanks
    13
    Thanked 23 Times in 18 Posts
    Cleaned some random parts as well. I had intentions of powder coating the wiper motor housing, took it apart and had some springs fly out everywhere only to realize that there is a magnet glued to the inside of it and after a little research, heat demagnetizes magnets, oh well. I have a spare one so I'll try to loosen the adhesive and re-glue them and see if it still works.







    Last edited by 99ishVR-4; 08-12-2012 at 06:16 PM.

  3. #23
    Member Not Verified
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Owner Since
    2009

    Location
    Scottsbluff, NE
    Posts
    872
    Thanks
    37
    Thanked 49 Times in 36 Posts
    I also have a bit of experience powdercoating, my next project is going to be doing EVERYTHING in my buddy's engine bay with the black chrome. I think your problem with the varied results that you are getting is the thickness that you are putting down on the black chrome, if it is too thin it will look like a gunmetal or grey and if it is too thick it will look like a gloss black almost. So try messing around with the thickness of your coat and see if what I suspect is true. Also, another idea, which I ended up doing on my last project (granny smith dormant with a mirror gloss clear), is to do an argent silver/base silver base coat before the black chrome.

    I'd share some pics of my last project but then this really will be just a powdercoating thread LOL.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by DK77; 08-13-2012 at 12:26 AM.
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

  4. #24
    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    Not Anymore

    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    6,490
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    483
    Thanked 543 Times in 390 Posts
    nice work.

    question though...why re-use stock brake lines? why not just put AM ones in?

  5. #25
    Forum User Not Verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Cape Girardeau
    Posts
    4,791
    Thanks
    365
    Thanked 296 Times in 214 Posts
    looks good, be sure to sand off the powercoat on the ptu bracket where it touches the ptu. It should be bare metal (with heatsink compound optimally) or the ptu can overheat.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Chris@Rvengeperformance For This Useful Post:


  7. #26
    SKADOOSH!!! verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2008

    Location
    Prince George
    Posts
    1,295
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    46
    Thanked 49 Times in 42 Posts
    Wow, Nice build! Keep up the good work man, I hope to see more soon.
    Photobucket

  8. #27
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2005

    Posts
    293
    Thanks
    13
    Thanked 23 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by DK77 View Post
    I also have a bit of experience powdercoating, my next project is going to be doing EVERYTHING in my buddy's engine bay with the black chrome. I think your problem with the varied results that you are getting is the thickness that you are putting down on the black chrome, if it is too thin it will look like a gunmetal or grey and if it is too thick it will look like a gloss black almost. So try messing around with the thickness of your coat and see if what I suspect is true. Also, another idea, which I ended up doing on my last project (granny smith dormant with a mirror gloss clear), is to do an argent silver/base silver base coat before the black chrome.

    I'd share some pics of my last project but then this really will be just a powdercoating thread LOL.

    Good luck.
    I thought the thickness was messing with it so I did test it out with lighter coats and heavier coats, and I did get it correct on one piece, but me being a newbie at powder coating, its hard to tell when the thickness is correct even after the test. I will keep practicing before I get to any important visible parts. Although the black chrome will still be just an accent in my engine bay, I am considering doing the alternator, brake master and clutch master using it if I don't feel like polishing them and those I want to come out right.
    Quote Originally Posted by IPD View Post
    nice work.

    question though...why re-use stock brake lines? why not just put AM ones in?
    Thanks, I re-used the stock ones because there is nothing "better" in my opinion. The aftermarket ones are "different", not necessarily better. By aftermarket, I assume you mean the stm braided line kit. Those seem to be for people that want to delete their abs without taking the engine out, but I will have the engine out again before this car is finished so I won't have that issue. Also I prefer the hard line over the braided as once their in place and don't cause any chafing issues that the braided lines do.
    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    looks good, be sure to sand off the powercoat on the ptu bracket where it touches the ptu. It should be bare metal (with heatsink compound optimally) or the ptu can overheat.
    Thanks, I actually made a little stencil of the ptu bottom and traced it onto the high temp masking tape so the ptu is still touching bare metal. I wasn't aware of the thermal paste though, I would assume some arctic silver for a cpu would work for that? I have some laying around I think.

    Quote Originally Posted by J_Parker View Post
    Wow, Nice build! Keep up the good work man, I hope to see more soon.
    Thanks, you too, I am subscribed to your build thread and check it every couple hours lol. We seem to be doing a similar build, my wiring harness is next on my list. I will also be gutting out all the unused wiring, although there is not much as it is entirely an na harness already. But I would like to integrate the wiring for my gauges, datalogger and all that stuff into the harness and re-loom it. I have been looking at the possible materials for wire covering and can't make up my mind. Stock loom is cheap but looks kind of cheap, the braided sleeve loom looks nice, but not very protective as far as letting dirt and oil in, and then there is heatshrinking the entire harness with raychem dr-25 like all the professional race teams do, however that is extremely expensive. Was interested to see what you decide to use.

  9. #28
    1st ever COTM and COTY verified
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Owner Since
    Birth

    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    7,077
    Thanks
    649
    Thanked 451 Times in 347 Posts
    Very impressive! Looks great

    Did you have a different screen name on the "other site"?

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

  10. #29
    Forum User verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2005

    Posts
    293
    Thanks
    13
    Thanked 23 Times in 18 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post
    Very impressive! Looks great

    Did you have a different screen name on the "other site"?
    Yea I used to be mudvaynedude122

  11. #30
    RTBOOST verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Location
    Florence, Wisconsin
    Posts
    715
    Thanks
    24
    Thanked 29 Times in 19 Posts
    Awesome job so far!!! It's looking very nice with all of that work you're doing to it!!
    '90 Toyota Celica GT Liftback..........................(X) (daily driver)
    '73 Dodge Challenger 340...............................(X)
    '91 Firestorm Red Stealth R/T TT.....................(X)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering