Painted the front o2 housing. Still need a gasket o2 plug for it.
Some black high temp ceramic manifold paint. I'll do this for all my exhaust parts that aren't stainless. Would be nice if they made a gloss.
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Painted the front o2 housing. Still need a gasket o2 plug for it.
Some black high temp ceramic manifold paint. I'll do this for all my exhaust parts that aren't stainless. Would be nice if they made a gloss.
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Some test fitting now that I have all the peices
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That will never fit!!
I keed I keed.
rise and rise again until lambs become lions
some pretty looking parts there! will look even better once it gets nice and hot and turns all its fancy natural colors.

2014 Exomotive Exocet - #101 "shocker yellow" - 1.8L 5-speed 3.9 torsen FMII powered
Read more: http://mevowners.proboards.com/threa.../greg-pa-build
99 Solano Black VR4 - #16 of 287 - ground up restoration - sold
98 Pearl White VR4 #54 of 231 - 12.84@105mph - 93 Octane 12.50@107mph - 100 Octane with Chromed ECU - sold
99 Pearl White VR4 #108 of 287 - 3RD place stock car class ECG 11 - Sold
98 Black VR4: 100% stock - totalled by an Illegal 2-12-08
95 White Stealth TT - 11.852 @ 118.25 - sold
95 SSG Stealth TT - 11.981 @ 115.81mph - sold
"I don't actually work on cars, I just talk about them on the internet."
Look pretty good Greg. Doubt I have time for that now. Would have to find spare parts
How much would you charge though?
Another question.... do I need a vacuum distribution block? I would think 3 ports would be enough to cover both actuators and boost gauge. I have a ton of plastic vacuum splitters and could probably use those, but it would be so cheap to get a distribution block and would probably make it look better. I already did the vacuum reduction on my current setup. Only have 1 line going from rear valve cover to intake. Also, what would I do with that once I do the blow through setup with the gm maf?
I would do that but mount it behind the intake manifold. That shit just looks ugly in the engine bay. Plus like you said you get the option to run more vac feeds if need be.
I think I figured out how I'm going to mount the oil cooler. Sideways with lines facing outward. I'll need a 24" and 28" hose with 90 degree fittings on the oil cooler side and probably 45 or 90 degree swivel fittings to the oil filter housing.
IMG_20130430_175806_OilCoolerMounted.jpg
Only one hole lined up at the top so I'm rigging up a simple bracket for the bottom.
IMG_20130430_175500_OilCoolerBracket.jpg
Adapters on the housing. (M16x1.5 to -10AN)
*upload pic
* This particular oil cooler wouldn't fit so well with the driver side SMIC, so later I moved to the front bumper. If it were and inch shorter, it should fit much better.
Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-28-2013 at 03:07 PM.
Car's up on jackstands and halfway taken apart. Project has officially started
One last "Before" pic
IMG_20130502_193613_EngineBay.jpg
Didn't turn out quite like I had planned, lol. Also, found out I wired them wrong, anyway.
IMG_20130510_205341_RearHarness_2.jpg
Getting started
IMG_20130511_143509_GettingStarted.jpg
*So I found out I did the resistors wrong. I was thinking the shared wires were the ground and the individuals were power. It's other way around.
Mixed color wires go to ecu and are the switched grounds instead of switched power.
So, I need to add resistors into the power wires (typically red, thicker and junctioned together before the connector).
Good thing I have extra harnesses and resistors for just such a situation
*Also believe the power wires are the thicker gauge. And for the front injectors, if you pop the hood and look down at the clips, positive is on the right. Rear would be on the left.
*Pretty sure this is right. Someone correct me if I'm wrong and I'll update, so I'm not putting any misinformation out there.
Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-28-2013 at 03:11 PM.
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