My 6g74 tt build

[n2nsanity]

PS intercooler mounted. This was by far the easiest step. I think I have to drill holes for the driver side, right?
IMG_20130512_122638_PS_IC_1.jpg

*Wow, should've cleaned it first, lol
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Somewhere in the middle of all this, I decided to go ahead and do the ABS delete. That actually took me a good bit of the weekend. With working Saturday and Sunday and also Sunday being Mothers Day, I only had about 8 hours to work with.

[green-lantern]

I think I figured out how I'm going to mount the oil cooler. Sideways with lines facing outward. I'll need a 24" and 28" hose with 90 degree fittings on the oil cooler side and probably 45 or 90 degree swivel fittings to the oil filter housing.
Attachment 5341

Only one hole lined up at the top so I'm rigging up a simple bracket for the bottom.
Attachment 5342


Adapters on the housing. (M16x1.5 to -10AN)
*upload pic

Not sure if I'm understanding right but the oil cooler really needs to be straight up and down or the efficiency will suffer big time.

PS intercooler mounted. This was by far the easiest step. I think I have to drill holes for the driver side, right?

Yes you have to cut a hole.

I just found this pic with a quick search. It should give you a good idea what you need to do.

[n2nsanity]

Engine's out

Without removing the hood. TIGHT squeeze!
IMG_20130513_EngineOut_2.jpg

IMG_20130513_EngineOut_4.jpg

IMG_20130513_EngineOut_5.jpg

*sitting pretty stable, but should probably zip tie compressor in place just in case
IMG_20130513_EngineOut_6.jpg

[n2nsanity]

Trans off
IMG_20130514_043050_Trans_Off.jpg

Think I need to resurface the flywheel? Feels pretty flat to me.
IMG_20130514_043626_Flywheel_1.jpg

Not easy to see from pic, but clutch is as smooth as glass.... Explains why it was slipping recently. Oh well, glad it started slipping before I started the conversion, lol. Would've been pissed if I had to take the trans off a few days after completing this project.
IMG_20130514_043715_Old6PuckClutch_1.jpg

This homemade tool helps a lot with removing and installing flywheel. It's actually part of my homemade crankpulley removal tool. Basically 2 metal bars, 1 long/1short forming with 2 holes drilled in each. Together they form a Y. This is the shorter piece and works perfectly for flywheel too. If you don't have a drill press at home, ninjaperformance sells a nicer tool for cheap.
IMG_20130517_192518_FW_Tool.jpg

I run the long bolt through the sleeved hole on the engine, but there are a number of ways you can do this.
IMG_20130517_192652_FW_Tool_Locked.jpg

[n2nsanity]

Tranny was brown, lol. I didn't clean it too good the 1st time. A few years ago it had mud caked on it where bees or something had built nests on it. I scraped that off but never really cleaned it. So attempted some cleaning this time around.

Hit it with some wire wheels, was taking forever
IMG_20130514_044832_TrannyDirty_1.jpg

This (nylon I think) attachment worked MUCH better
IMG_20130514_155831_TrannyDirty_2.jpg

Got bored with this and moved onto other things. Pretty sure this thing will need replacing soon anyway lol.

[n2nsanity]

Front manifold on. Not sure I like that PTU location so much any more. And looks like my dipstick is leaking. Don't remember that being a problem before.
IMG_20130514_FrtManOn.jpg
*Later on I moved PTU to side under coilpack with a makeshift bracket.
*Also, later I used a new oring on the dipstick tube.
*Also, ended up putting the stock manifold on later.

I was wondering why the old manifold came off so easily but then I remembered what I did the day before....
IMG_20130513_SuperLube.jpg
*This magical concoction = ATF/Acetone mixture

Seriously, I could have removed those exhaust manifold bolts with a stubby 1/4" drive ratchet

[n2nsanity]

Not sure if I'm understanding right but the oil cooler really needs to be straight up and down or the efficiency will suffer big time.
Yes you have to cut a hole.

I just found this pic with a quick search. It should give you a good idea what you need to do.

Thanks, yeah I'm pretty sure I've seen a pic before and looked like they did it with a hole saw for a cleaner look. But hacking wide open allows for easier install, better ventilation and larger pipes in the future.
I'll figure something out. I have a few toys that can cut metal

For the oil cooler, I've seen them mounted sideways MANY times. You sure this is going to be a problem?
OEM has ports on top, I believe. Which will be a REAL PITA to pull off using the one I have.

[green-lantern]

For the oil cooler, I've seen them mounted sideways MANY times. You sure this is going to be a problem?

Yep, of course it matters how much of an angle but the more it leans the less efficient it becomes. You've never seen a car built with a flat radiator have you?
Edit: I should say though if you build ducting to force air into it then it will help a lot.

+1 on the PTU, looks like you might have trouble with it mounted there.

The build is coming along nicely, sorry if I missed this but are you going to run some kind of LSD?

Also some of your pics aren't working.

[n2nsanity]

Need to fix the pics. Not sure what happened.
*Pics fixed.

Stainless manifolds are causing some fitment issues that I don't feel like dealing with atm. Going back to stock tt manifolds for now.

Oil returns are proving to be a real pita. The 1st set of flange adapters fit, but didn't leave room for those monstrous lines to attach. The 2nd set are 2 pieces each and make it sit lower. So I'm having a hard time lining them up to oil pan in stock location. I have weld-on fittings so I could put them anywhere but trying to get the most effective drain possible. Lines are mostly likely going to need some adjusting.

I have 2 broken studs in the front turbo housing. I've replaced all the missing ones already. Anyway, these 2 are killing me. I've tried all kinds of stuff and can't break them free. Guess I need to find a machine shop.

I thought I had another problem, but figured out a solution. My rear oil feed setup is going to be ridiculous. I'm improvising a few things to make this work.
I'm not sure why the oil feeds were m10 up front and m12 in rear. But the rear has a removable adapter. Pull it off and it's an m10 just like the front.
So now my ss line with the m10 banjo fitting fits
Mounted the axle to the block to check for clearance and looks good. Close, but should be fine.

Also can't really do the tt oil filter housing until after the oil pan. Can't do the oil pan until I get everything fitted so I can mark spots for weld-on return fittings. These broken studs and returns are the hold up now.

[n2nsanity]

Wow, I knew most people replaced the front motor mount bracket, but thought that was mostly due to oil return.
No way I'm getting the front turbo to fit with this bracket on, unless I hack it all to hell, which I have considered, lol.
Anyway, guess I need a front TT mount bracket.
This is going to slow progress

*Have a tt front mount bracket lined up for cheap, but won't have it for a while. I ended up hacking the mount all to hell, lol.