JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

[Jimvr4]

I should add both turbos look great and no evidence of anything getting chucked out the exhaust side of the heads. The mesh in the precats and cat looks perfect too, like a new car.

[CoopKill]

It sounds good in principal but the sideskirts have to come off to get the fenders off. Sideskirt removal is a total PITA on Spyders.

Sideskirts only have to be loosened in the front at the fender, not completely removed. I just pull the 3 bolts, and pop it loose enough to slide the fender out.

Edit: Be sure to tape edges of the door as a precaution...

[TurboSinceBirth]

I will add that when you put the oil pan back on if the engine is in the car make sure to completely take out the dipstick. I made the mistake of leaving it in there. Granted, it was sticking out about 3 inches which I thought was enough. Nope, it got stuck right at the girdle. I was so pissed since I spent about 2 hours and didn't want to redo it so I yanked on it really hard. It straightened out the dipstick but came out thankfully so I swapped in a spare. Had it been completely in I would have had to take everything apart. What was stuck was the last part where it curves.

[Jimvr4]

Finally the heads are off. Here is the front bank head. #1 piston land is broken and you can see the debris all over the valves. You can't tell from this picture but the left exhaust valve in #5 is missing a good sized chunk, probably 25%. These findings match up with the plugs where #1 ground electrode was bent closed which could be explained by the broken land in that cylinder. #5 plug had a broken ground electrode and there is slag in #5 cylinder along with the broken exhaust valve:



Here you can see the #1 piston broken at the top from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock:



Here's a wider view of the block. The cross hatch is visible in the cylinders and the head gaskets show no signs of a breach. Slag is still visible at the bottom of #5. #2, #4, and #6 look relatively normal for an engine of 100K miles I think:

[mehrshadvr4]

I will add that when you put the oil pan back on if the engine is in the car make sure to completely take out the dipstick. I made the mistake of leaving it in there. Granted, it was sticking out about 3 inches which I thought was enough. Nope, it got stuck right at the girdle. I was so pissed since I spent about 2 hours and didn't want to redo it so I yanked on it really hard. It straightened out the dipstick but came out thankfully so I swapped in a spare. Had it been completely in I would have had to take everything apart. What was stuck was the last part where it curves.

HAHAHAH I'm with him. I did the exact same thing, but mine didn't come out no matter how hard I tried.

[CoreyB]

Looks like an easy fix Jim. No gouging in the cylinder walls from the broken piston?

[j2k4]

Looks like you were a wee bit lucky, Jim

[Roybatty]

Looks like an easy fix Jim. No gouging in the cylinder walls from the broken piston?

Alright... what causes piston failure like this....predetonation? high AFR @ WOT? Loose nut behind the wheel?


After dicking with the oil pan and bearings while engine is in car...I would definitely do all that while it is on the stand.

[CoreyB]

I am sure it was detonation. But by easy fix, I mean new pistons, rings, hone job, possibly rods, bearings, a couple valves, valve grind.

[Blackmount]

4.0 stroker, easy stuff tho