Ah, maybe it depends on the tool. I used one to pop apart a BJ in the junkyard, but it wasn't my tool, so I can't look it up.
Ah, maybe it depends on the tool. I used one to pop apart a BJ in the junkyard, but it wasn't my tool, so I can't look it up.
R135
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- 24
I run the nut to the top of the threads then wedge one of the prongs of the pickle fork between the nut and top of the knuckle. Bang on it with a big hammer to pop it loose. It bends the nylon part of the nut a little but it still works or just replace the nut. You want the nylon part sort of off the stud because once it separates it can be hard to get the nut the rest of the way off. If the nut doesn't want to come off then jack the control arm back up into the hole to keep the ball joint from spinning.
Hans says you can just bang on it with a hammer but I haven't had luck with that before.
Hit it with a hammer!!!
Man, I hate banging on stuff with a hammer - I'm not that accurate
I tried using my Pitman puller on the nut with it threaded up near the top and the puller created a circular bite into the nut. I suppose banging the side of the knuckle at that moment might have worked.

yes if you put tension on it like that and then hit it then it will probably spring loose.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
The hammer method works waaay better when you hold a real heavy solid object on the opposite side from the hit- firmly press a small sledge against nuckle & rap with a weighty hammer.....PoP!
I used a pickle fork and some heavy banging. It tore up the boot but I didn't care. Sending it out all out for powder coating so all of the rubber has to go. Since your getting it all powder coated that means you have to press the whole ball joint out of the control arm so you'll need new ones anyhow.
True, might as well replace them anyway. If they are the stock ones I'd say they are getting worn. You can buy new rubber boots if you don't replace them. Hans is selling bushings for those control arms also. I don't think he has the rear ones yet but he is ordering some we hope will fit.
This time around, I just replaced the ball joints. Bought them from Hans CHEAP. They were extremely easy to change as well.
Off jackstands on all 4's!!!
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1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
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