Overheating with TD05 turbochargers

[PaulL]

A few findings tonight:
1) Radiator fans do come on and are blowing in the right direction.
2) Coolant system is completely degassed.
3) Thermostat is opening and staying open.
4) Car can idle and stay at operating temp.
5) Car can drive in vacuum and stay at operating temp.


Here is where the issue lies, when building boost the temperature starts to climb. If you stay in boost the car will overheat. In my opinion the new front mount intercooler which blocks the entire grille is not allowing any ambient air to enter the radiator. I believe that the air exiting the intercooler is already heatsoaked (too hot) for the radiator to effectively transfer heat.

The solution, in my mind, is to either duct cool ambient air into the airstream of the radiator or downsize the front mount or both. We gave propbreaker a few ideas to test this theory that require little effort and no money.

Let us know what you find!

I was thinking it may not be a bad idea to build some ducting that extends past the sides of the fmic, which will allow some of the air going around the fmic to be funneled into the radiator. I will actually be testing results myself next time I drive my car because I have temporarily removed the crash bar, and cut off the section containing the bolt holes that attach the bumper to the crash bar. If this helps any, I will get my crashbar modified to allow more air in. If it does not help, then I will just put the crash back on as it was.

[R/T93]

Smic's, solved

From the phone.

[JasonY]

Smic's, solved

From the phone.

Jason

[IPD]

upgraded intake heaters != solution.

[mb3000]

Question #1: What front bumper do you have?
Question #2: Do you still have your stock crashbar?

[PaulL]

Latest update. Went for a drive today with the crash bar removed. Ambient temps outside are 93 degrees. Everything seems to be alright when the car is moving, but I still haven't been to test this long term as I have a lot of other things to do and don't have the time to go driving around for a while. Sitting at idle for a long time, and the a/c on, the temps crept up to 218 degrees before I cut the a/c off. After turning it off, the temps crept back down to 198 degrees before I turned the a/c back on again, in which it crept back up to 210 degrees before I cut i off again. The problem still seems to be when sitting still.

Adding ducting will probably decrease the engine temps while in motion, but probably won't help with anything when idling. I am running an OEM condensor fan with just the high speed wired up, and I am running a slim SPAL fan. I am still considering putting a stock radiator back in and adding the 2nd A/C fan back in and see if that makes the difference.

[MR2]

Does not surprise me that a thinner radiator will work better with a thick FMIC, would not surprise me if going from a 4" FMIC to a 3" FMIC greatly improved cooling while having little or no effect on inlet temps

[R/T93]

upgraded intake heaters != solution.

I could lap for 4 hours and not even think to look at my temp gauges = solved.
Yes td05 cars may have 200 more whp than me but 5 mins of messing around on the highway doesn't remotely come close to lapping.

Sorry for the initial troll post everyone.

From the phone.

[PaulL]

Does not surprise me that a thinner radiator will work better with a thick FMIC, would not surprise me if going from a 4" FMIC to a 3" FMIC greatly improved cooling while having little or no effect on inlet temps

Do you think that the fans might be able to move more air with the thinner OEM radiator?

[MR2]

I highly suspect so, there was talk that the OEM radiator has a Copper core, while most aftermarkets are Alu, if the oem IS Copper, that would in theory be able to transfer more heat faster(per cube of rad)...would be impressed if the increase was over 15% though. I expect for your case the increase would be due to the fans having less backpressure to fight with (as you say, moving more air)


one option one of our local members did (GTWHOA) was to cut out some space above the FMIC in his bumper to allow fresh non-preheated air to bypass the FMIC and go straight into the top of the radiator.