1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
1993 3000GT VR4 - Maroon/Blacktop - Back to stock/Restoration
1994 Stealth R/T - Primer - Parts store
Is that oil on stock synchros or bronze ones? I've heard more than a few mention using 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Personally, I Just too much of a scardy cat to try it out cuz trans parts cost an arm and a leg. Out of curiosity, what made you or who convinced you to put traditional motor oil in there?
Last edited by J. Fast; 08-18-2011 at 12:42 AM.
yeeah, i saw the weights that seemed like motor oil weights, but i figured mobile one made transaxle fluid the way you were talking. really.. straight up motor oil. it's not like i know what either are made of, but hmmm..
_isiah
Stock synchros. The previous owner of my VR4 is the one who convinced me when I mentioned 2nd gear was getting hard to get into, especially when cold. He talked to Getrag directly and they told him the manual was wrong, and 10w-30 is what belonged in their gearbox. Said that's what he had always run since he found out, and never had any issues. Sure enough, as soon as I started running it, I no longer had issues. Third-party information, but it works mint.
grossly interesting.
i think i'll try it..
and the idea that better gear oil can quiet the clutch chatter down? will it keep the temp down?
i think i'm going to put 10w30 in the transmission. are you also running 10w30 in your transfer case?
should i be going with a high end oil? <whatever that means.. i'm hearing mobile one? .
and get a transmission cooler. is that acceptable at this point?
_isiah
ediT: whooops,
"As far as oils...Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 in the trans, and Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 75W-90 in the x-fer, 5 years of running thos
e, 5 years of perfect shifting (with massive amounts of abuse). Prior to the 10W-30 I ran 75w-90 and 2nd gear would grind sometimes."
Last edited by shmoo; 08-20-2011 at 02:11 AM.
If your clutch noise is the hub rivets coming loose, which being a Spec I highly suspect it is, there isn't a gear oil in the world that will quiet it down.
I only run Mobil-1 full syn. because that's what the previous owner ran, and the idea of going against the manual still makes me cringe, so I haven't ventured into other brands (run-on sentence much?).
I don't know anything about transmission coolers other than Jackhammer ingeniously made one, and a few others have. Unless you're running Pike's Peak I doubt it's necessary.
i know it's probably not necessary. but i imagine it'll help a little.
how does a universal cooler work anyways? does the fluid actually pass through the piece, or does water pass through the piece? or..
_isiah
i'd like to send this clutch off, but i don't really wanna be without a car for that long. can i run a nearer to stock clutch disc with my stage four pressure plate?
Last edited by shmoo; 08-23-2011 at 03:07 AM.
A universal cooler relies on there being a pump already in use. Your manual transmission has no pump, which is why it's a feat of ingenious engineering to make a manual trans. cooler work.
The universal ones act just like a radiator. Fluid passes through them and air passes over the cooler fins to cool the fluid.
Couldn't tell you about using a stock disc. I looked into it briefly and from what I can tell the Spec pressure plate is a painted stock plate, but they don't release that information, so maybe.
hmmm, thanks
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