Current Car:
2011 Chevrolet Corvette GrandSport
Cars Owned:
1992 Dodge Stealth RT (sold)
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #1 (parted)
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #2 (sold)
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #1 (KIA)
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 #2 (sold)
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (sold)
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT Base - awd/atx (sold)
1997 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR4 (sold)
2006 Pontiac GTO (sold/traded)
2008 Chevrolet Corvette 3LT (z51)
as I see it, it still largely depends on HOW you let the clutch out...and slightly on your clutch adjustment (how soon after the 2 step sees the clutch being let out that it lets the revs rise.)
Building a House, Car Mods on hold!
1996 GTO, Owner since 2003.
I've never really even considered 10's with my 13T's. Mid 11's would make me happy. Well to be specific getting kicked off the track. 11.5 with no roll cage. Can 3rd in a 5spd do 125mph+ with out changing the rev limiter.
Most powerful 13T car in the world @501awhp, PTE 780CC injectors, AFPR, E85, Greddy Profec B, 3.5" Granatelli MAF, MAFT, SS Headers and O2 housings front, 3SX downpipe, CRX racing FMIC, Dejon intake pipes, Ground Controls, Maximal adjustable rear control arms, Maximal TC Brace, Poly front and rear mounts, Vacuum Reduction, EGR block off plate, Hot Wired Walbro 255 and inline Walbro 255, Southbend stage 3 clutch, Slotted and vented rotors, SAFCII, Turbo XS BOV, 3SX FP hotwire, Seatle Short Shifter, Jackhammer timing gears: Best 1/4 mile 12.33 at 114.9 mph 1.79 60ft.
I think mid-high 11's on pump gas is possible with 13T's, that has always been my goal. After Jet did 11.8 on race gas with basically no mods, I think 11.6-11.7 is possible on pump with more supporting mods, and on E85... Well, I'll leave it to you to find out if 10's are possible.![]()
Why people decide to go to the track with no bell housing brace(BPU and beyond) or a billet endcase(>600AWHP) if they're making that much power really baffles me. I guess they got money to piss away buying new transmissions. Lol. That's why I went with a 300M OS, SS front and mid case, and in the near future 300M rear axles. I shouldn't have a problem with my drivetrain.![]()
Last edited by TurboSinceBirth; 07-04-2011 at 07:41 PM.
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
Back in the day, we used to have a 300m and that was enough. New guys are spoiled.

the 2 step in my particular case is EASIER on the drivetrain. I can focus 100% of my mind on slipping the clutch smoothly. If you want the video I posted in the NG media thread you can see it leaves the line like an auto. Before when I had to worry about launch rpm I had a tendency to let the clutch out too quickly and shock the drivetrain.
Now, that is a driver problem, I realize, but the 2 step has allowed me to come out really smoothly and reduce the chances of breaking because I can get the clutch just right.
I would love to see a 1.7 60FT on a 3000 RPM launch. I launched at 4500 and cut a 1.75. Even with -10 degrees of timing at 4500 I'm only making 5 PSI. I'd be suprised if you are making more than 1-2 PSI with 13Ts and 3000 RPM 2 step.
I'm not going to temp fate though, I'm getting the fbc billet transfer case housings built before I hit the track again.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Shock is shock..the trans always gets shocked (unless it's an auto). I suppose to your point it's how much of a shock is given all at once that is the determining factor.
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