My Quest to Prove Ray Pampena a mortal man.

[Broomfield Racing]

Are you joking?

[Alex3000gt]

Why people think you need that shit to successfully drag race really baffles me!!! I've put hundreds of passes on 3/s cars from stock to fairly heavily modded and NEVER EVER broke anything -- no 300M output shafts, no billet cases, welded in braces, 2-step, etc... Not even the OEM bracket that some 1st gens came with! All you need is good poly or solid motor mounts, NOT an overkill clutch from what you're trying to accomplish and good technique.

Pro Tip: Wheel spin is your friend.

All of that stuff is great, but it is definitely NOT needed unless you're trying to break records. The average weekend warrior trying to run 11's doesn't need any of that to be successful.

So because you personally never broke anything this means that others will not? Or are you saying that others are doing something wrong and this is causing things to break? Are bad motor mounts the root cause of most failures?



Please expand on this.

Dude, since you're obviously SO much fucking better than all of us, why do you still troll here and 3si with your incessant garbage? Every post you make is more bullshit about how great you are and how much we all suck. We get it, you are god, your car, and more importantly, you, are far superior beings than the rest of us. So GTFO and let us be.

I am hoping he will expand on his earlier words.

I am, afterall, here to learn things about these cars. But last time I checked there were people with stock power levels wrecking transfer cases and output shafts.

[UTRacerX9]

IIRC, Abram's car that he ran a 11.4 with back in the day had a 25 spline OS. Pretty sure he'd have broken an 18 spline if he had one.

[TurboSinceBirth]

A 13T car is going to need some serious weight reduction to get in the 10s. Definitely not for the undertaking of the average person. Once the major stuff is out of the way the hacking away at it little by little becomes very challenging.

[UTRacerX9]

A 13T car is going to need some serious weight reduction to get in the 10s. Definitely not for the undertaking of the average person. Once the major stuff is out of the way the hacking away at it little by little becomes very challenging.

I'd disagree with that a bit... A 9B car needs serious weight reduction to get into the 10's, and it's been done. With 13T's, it wouldn't need to be as extreme as gutting the car IMO.

[terrets]

http://www.3sgto.org/f17/how-do-you-...tml#post104328


Cant wait to see the finished product Dillon, even though I know it will never truly be "finished".

[HellBringer]

LOL

You guys are hilarious -- buncha whipped puppies that flinch anytime someone raises a hand...

It's not about me, nor does it have anything to do with me. You may not like me or my delivery, but I always speak from my own personal experience and the experiences I have observed from others. I do not go around regurgitating misinformed internet conjecture and assumptions not grounded in fact or reality. If more people around here spent more time listening and learning from those that have already done what they're trying to accomplish than whining about some self-inflicted inferiority complex like 9 year olds with a skinned knee maybe you'd be more successful at achieving your goals. With that out of the way....

My point was, as I have already stated, you absolutely do not need any drivetrain reinforcements to successfully run 11's or upper 10's (or more specifically safely execute 1.6 60's) any more than you need to build your engine to support 15g's.... Both are great to have, but are overkill as long as you have a reasonable launch technique and are willing to sacrifice a little ET for safety and/or make it up with power on the big end. All of these drivetrain reinforcements are relatively new advancements, yet people were successfully racing these cars for nearly a decade without them. Matt (as an example) ran hundreds of low 11's and mid/upper 10's across several different cars for years and for a long time the only thing I recall him ever breaking was a 6sp transfercase with over 100k miles on it. Ray broke a lot of parts back in the day, but his technique was different -- cut a 1.5 or better 60' to squeeze every .001th out of the available power. If you want to do that, then yes - you need all of the aforementioned reinforcements. Further, it's more about the 60' than the ET. A full-weight BPU car cutting a 1.6 60' is putting the same drivetrain stress as a full-weight DR1000 car cutting a 1.6 60 -- simple physics. But again, the average bolt-on turbo weekend warrior trying to run 11's shouldn't need any of that to race without breaking - I didn't, nor have dozens of others. I put lots of passes on my old DR650 VR-4 running mid/upper 11's and hundreds of street launches and never broke anything and never even killed a clutch -- it's all about technique and inducing wheelspin at the expense of a .1 or.2. My best runs were mid 1.6 60's roasting the tires through 1st gear. Wheelspin without wheelhop = safe and happy unreinforced drivetrain. I know I could've shaved some ET by coming out of the hold harder and cleaner, but I drove 100 miles to and from the track and never once had to call AAA. This is my own personal experience and not the parroting of someone elses that's never even seen a drag strip except from behind a monitor. I am by no means against any of those mods, and given the opportunity I would encourage them; however, they are certainly NOT requisites for successful racing with modest goals.

RE: 18-spline OS -- I would NOT recommend dragging an OEM 18-spline no matter what... However, I can tell you from personal experiencing dragging my buddy's BPU++++ Stealth and later DR500's that we never broke one back in the day. History has proven this to be very risky, though, and not a roll of the dice I'd be willing to take today.

Focus on the successes and not the failures and spend more time listening and learning than bitching and whining.

[AudibleSilence]

^I would absolutely love to run you one day Abe..just for shits and giggles. I wish you lived closer.

[AdamVR4]

LOL

You guys are hilarious -- buncha whipped puppies that flinch anytime someone raises a hand...

It's not about me, nor does it have anything to do with me. You may not like me or my delivery, but I always speak from my own personal experience and the experiences I have observed from others. I do not go around regurgitating misinformed internet conjecture and assumptions not grounded in fact or reality. If more people around here spent more time listening and learning from those that have already done what they're trying to accomplish than whining about some self-inflicted inferiority complex like 9 year olds with a skinned knee maybe you'd be more successful at achieving your goals. With that out of the way....

My point was, as I have already stated, you absolutely do not need any drivetrain reinforcements to successfully run 11's or upper 10's (or more specifically safely execute 1.6 60's) any more than you need to build your engine to support 15g's.... Both are great to have, but are overkill as long as you have a reasonable launch technique and are willing to sacrifice a little ET for safety and/or make it up with power on the big end. All of these drivetrain reinforcements are relatively new advancements, yet people were successfully racing these cars for nearly a decade without them. Matt (as an example) ran hundreds of low 11's and mid/upper 10's across several different cars for years and for a long time the only thing I recall him ever breaking was a 6sp transfercase with over 100k miles on it. Ray broke a lot of parts back in the day, but his technique was different -- cut a 1.5 or better 60' to squeeze every .001th out of the available power. If you want to do that, then yes - you need all of the aforementioned reinforcements. Further, it's more about the 60' than the ET. A full-weight BPU car cutting a 1.6 60' is putting the same drivetrain stress as a full-weight DR1000 car cutting a 1.6 60 -- simple physics. But again, the average bolt-on turbo weekend warrior trying to run 11's shouldn't need any of that to race without breaking - I didn't, nor have dozens of others. I put lots of passes on my old DR650 VR-4 running mid/upper 11's and hundreds of street launches and never broke anything and never even killed a clutch -- it's all about technique and inducing wheelspin at the expense of a .1 or.2. My best runs were mid 1.6 60's roasting the tires through 1st gear. Wheelspin without wheelhop = safe and happy unreinforced drivetrain. I know I could've shaved some ET by coming out of the hold harder and cleaner, but I drove 100 miles to and from the track and never once had to call AAA. This is my own personal experience and not the parroting of someone elses that's never even seen a drag strip except from behind a monitor. I am by no means against any of those mods, and given the opportunity I would encourage them; however, they are certainly NOT requisites for successful racing with modest goals.

RE: 18-spline OS -- I would NOT recommend dragging an OEM 18-spline no matter what... However, I can tell you from personal experiencing dragging my buddy's BPU++++ Stealth and later DR500's that we never broke one back in the day. History has proven this to be very risky, though, and not a roll of the dice I'd be willing to take today.

Focus on the successes and not the failures and spend more time listening and learning than bitching and whining.

I didn't really understand why everybody jumped your shit for your 1st post on the subject.

Can anyone name an instance of a 5 speed blowing up that hadn't experienced a t-case failure?

[vr3.9]

LOL

If more people around here spent more time listening and learning from those that have already done what they're trying to accomplish .

This!

I am glad I came along after the basics on these cars have been proven over and over and over. I see a lot of strange things people do with there cars that really don't have anything to do with putting together a balance of parts and mods to support their goals.