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Thread: fastfalcon94s custom manifold and dr750 tune thread

  1. #71
    I don't bite
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    Knock down the max rpm to just above where you will rev.

    Then if you need more resolution at certain rpms you can monkey with it even further, but evenly spaced break points are likely okay.

    Same for psi. If you have a 5 bar sensor but no plans to run more than 32 psi, make your max 35psi.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  2. #72
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    Im going to set the max at 8500 i may raise the rev limit to 8k

    1993 VR-4
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    made the change and re-scaled it. Holy crap! Pulls much harder with timing where it should be

  4. #74
    I just took my car out the garage this weekend since spring is here in VT. Hopefully I did everything right. We hooked up the timing light as is, locked the timing at 15 degrees, and tested it from idle up to 6krpm. With the 50 microsecond delay (1g vr4 recommendation) the timing light was actually 15 degrees down low and in the upper rpm more like 14 degrees. So I changed the setting to 130 microseconds (2g vr4 recommendation) and repeated the same test. Down low it was 15 degrees with the timing light, but around 6k rpms it was 17 degrees. So it actually fluctuated more with the "correct" setting. I set it to 60 microseconds and that seemed to keep it 15 degrees at idle and at 6k rpms.

    I'm not sure where the 130 microsecond recommendation came from, but maybe that isn't right? I kept it at 60 because that seems consistent for me. All this proves is that my timing was probably about ~1 degree lower than I thought it was above 4k rpms.

    Built motor, DR750s, AEM and Meth
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  5. #75
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    Every car will be different. Thanks for the reminder though, I still need to get around to doing that on my GTI. I did it once on my old engine and dizzy (hall sensor in dizzy) but haven't bothered to check since.
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  6. #76
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    Well, the 130 microsecond is what the 2nd gen sensors are rated for, it isn't like its pulled out of thin air. Whatever works though.

    Parting 6 speed
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    I've always had mine set to the 1g values, but this reminds me that I should test it at high rpm.


    Sent from my iPhone 6s+ using Tapatalk

  8. #78
    Quote Originally Posted by murphys_law View Post
    I've always had mine set to the 1g values, but this reminds me that I should test it at high rpm.
    Let me know when you do this as I'm curious if yours is similar. I'm going to keep mine at 60 because that seems to be where it wants to be.


    Forest Gump do you know where this number was pulled from? Does it show up in a table inside chrome somewhere? In the service manual? Did someone actually track down the manufacturers spec sheet? I think I have a spare sensor somewhere. I'll see if I can pull a manufacturers part# or something off it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fastfalcon94 View Post
    Let me know when you do this as I'm curious if yours is similar. I'm going to keep mine at 60 because that seems to be where it wants to be.


    Forest Gump do you know where this number was pulled from? Does it show up in a table inside chrome somewhere? In the service manual? Did someone actually track down the manufacturers spec sheet? I think I have a spare sensor somewhere. I'll see if I can pull a manufacturers part# or something off it.
    It looks like the original source may be aem:

    http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas_conversion.htm

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    It looks like the original source may be aem:

    http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas_conversion.htm
    That will factor in whatever delay there is in AEM though, so it'll have to be sussed out for each user, which is realistically the right way to do it as there's going to be some tolerance in every part (including ECU).

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