What did you do today to your 3/S?

[sergechronos]

It seems that the damn expandable foam I used to fill in the towers take a hell of a lot longer to cure than the week I let them sit before mounting them. So the foam forced it's way out under the tower and grew upward!! WTF. Now the fresh paint on the trunk is ruined as this shit does not come off and I probably won't be able to get the tower off now to respray any of it, like I have the time!!

Expanding foam is polyurethane based, solvents aren't going to do much (or anything) to it once dried unless you pay for specialty stuff explicitly for the removal of polyurethane foam. Your best bet for a solvent a local hardware store might carry would probably be something like MEK, but it will damage the surface of the paint as well. I'd try to cut as much off as you can, see if you can remove the worst of it mechanically. A metal putty knife can probably get under the wing to help break the hold there and allow you to remove the wing to repaint this stuff if you do get the time.

It would not be possible to remove the power from the front rack and still have the rear power rack operate. The the pressure from the front rack is what signals the rear rack to turn which ever direction that the front is pointing. The system would not work without the front rack having power.

Good point, hadn't really been thinking about that when I responded last night. At any rate, the AWS on my car was toast anyhow and not worth trying to save so it's gone the way of the dodo.

[DrGonzo]

Expanding foam is polyurethane based, solvents aren't going to do much (or anything) to it once dried unless you pay for specialty stuff explicitly for the removal of polyurethane foam. Your best bet for a solvent a local hardware store might carry would probably be something like MEK, but it will damage the surface of the paint as well. I'd try to cut as much off as you can, see if you can remove the worst of it mechanically. A metal putty knife can probably get under the wing to help break the hold there and allow you to remove the wing to repaint this stuff if you do get the time.

Yeah, I may have to use something like guitar wire to cut through it depending how badly it adhered to the rear deck. It will have to all be sanded and repainted. not even going to bother with chemicals as I know anything I use will also remove the paint.

[Jimvr4]

Damn Greg, looks like your car needs penicillin. It's got a bonsai tree growing out of it!

He shall now be known as Bonsai Gonzo!!

[j2k4]

Yeah, I may have to use something like guitar wire to cut through it depending how badly it adhered to the rear deck. It will have to all be sanded and repainted. not even going to bother with chemicals as I know anything I use will also remove the paint.

Greg, I wonder if you could get most of it off with judicious use of a Dremel with one of those wire wheels (maybe a brass one)?

I'd think patience would get you damn close, then maybe you could finish it off with a light compound/polish?

[DrGonzo]

Greg, I wonder if you could get most of it off with judicious use of a Dremel with one of those wire wheels (maybe a brass one)?

I'd think patience would get you damn close, then maybe you could finish it off with a light compound/polish?

The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.

[j2k4]

The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.

Ah, understood.

[sergechronos]

Center pins ordered for rear bushings. Added up what ive sent so far just on materials and sch, not including my time and labor. Total cost including r&d is way higher than I had hoped for..had planned to give a couple sets away to friends, but may have to sell them all just to try to recoup some of the costs future runs should be cheaper but jfc...

New tie rods arrived today. Significantly less free play than the old ones had, which is slightly concerning. I expected they'd be a bit tighter, but its quite a bit more. They do loosen up after a minute or so of moving it around.

Also, some shots of the bondo work Snook did for where the panels were welded in the bay. Was going pretty well till we started drinking . Still, some more sanding, a bit of glaze and some filler primer should resolve that. Couple more spots that need their new pieces welded in, but progress is progress.

Before:


After:




Need to pick up a new bit for the drill press for the center pins, but otherwise they're almost ready to be installed, which means rear subframe is almost ready to be installed

Likely going to try my hand at a DIY AWS arms for the back, may even replace the front bushing for the trailing arm with a heim before I put it all back under there.

[green-lantern]

The paint on the car is a single stage satin black. No clear coat. So anything I try to do will ruin the paint. Even light sanding and the panel is ruined. I have plans on respraying the entire car in the next year or so. I have a half gallon of the satin black left which is enough to paint the rear, hood and bumper for NG.

I'd probably try to break it off then get the rest with a plastic scraper and or x-acto knife (for the cracks). It might look fine.

[Bloodlust182]

Likely going to try my hand at a DIY AWS arms for the back, may even replace the front bushing for the trailing arm with a heim before I put it all back under there.

I made my own AWS delete when I was converting to AWD cost me about $86. Got some nice Teflon lined Heims from Speedwaymotors.com just seach "heim" and "swedge tube" and you should find everything you need. Don't forget some cone washers as well.

[sergechronos]

I made my own AWS delete when I was converting to AWD cost me about $86. Got some nice Teflon lined Heims from Speedwaymotors.com just seach "heim" and "swedge tube" and you should find everything you need. Don't forget some cone washers as well.

Pretty much what I had in mind, especially since a FWD rack will eliminate the awd up there, and a neoprene expansion plug will work for the top of the diff.