My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

[2fnloud]

Answered my own question:

Magnus DSM/EVO Remote Map Sensor Boss | Magnus Motorsports

[THE_FATTIE]

So I have my screen mounted in my vent, and no boost signal hooked up yet, (need to clean up some stuff first), I have it hooked to the ECU and the aem uego wideband. Ive noticed at idle wile my aem reports an afr of about 14-14.5, the screen on the dash pretty much bounces between 10 and 20, just back and forth. Is there anything I hooked up wrong? I know the aem updates way faster than the lbcdl does, but it seems to be reading ether crazy rich or crazy lean, just back and forth. I love it and think it looks great, but it does not seem to be reading properly.



I might have found my issue, possibly. What would happen if I hooked up the lcdbc to the blue wire instead of the white wire?

*WHITE <Analog Output><optional hookup> Connects to any Stand Alone ECU unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input.

*BLUE <Serial Output><optional hookup> Connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging.

Im pretty sure it is hooked to the white wire, but without going to check its going to drive me nuts...

Okie silly dilly dokie-o. I'm an idiot.

[BlackStealth]

Yup, having AEM serial hooked up instead of analog signal would give incorrect readings. The LCDBC only accepts 0-5v signal, and you were feeding it RS232 serial voltages which tend to be 10-12 volts. Of course I don't have an AEM unit to see if it really does produce true RS232 voltages, glad to see it didn't damage the microprocessor. Even if it did damage it, it's only a $20 part to replace.

If you want to see the numbers update more frequently, it can be adjusted in the "Screen Refresh =" setting. Lower number = faster screen refreshes.

Also I noticed you've mounted the plastic airvent adapter on the passenger side. I'm surprised it worked there at all, because it was designed for the driver's side.

[THE_FATTIE]

Yup, having AEM serial hooked up instead of analog signal would give incorrect readings. The LCDBC only accepts 0-5v signal, and you were feeding it RS232 serial voltages which tend to be 10-12 volts. Of course I don't have an AEM unit to see if it really does produce true RS232 voltages, glad to see it didn't damage the microprocessor. Even if it did damage it, it's only a $20 part to replace.

If you want to see the numbers update more frequently, it can be adjusted in the "Screen Refresh =" setting. Lower number = faster screen refreshes.

Also I noticed you've mounted the plastic airvent adapter on the passenger side. I'm surprised it worked there at all, because it was designed for the driver's side.

No apparent damage for now, but I guess time will tell.

I dont know a better way to say it, but will lowering the screen refresh effect any other areas of the unit? Like making the screen refresh faster wont pull make anything else go slower?

Also I did not think the side mattered, and living in Iowa with our weather mood swings, in the dead of winter or the middle of summer I need vents on me lol. I dont want to freeze or melt.

I just got the Boost solenoid hooked up and I did a test to be sure it was working, It clicks like crazy at 50% duty cycle. I might have to figure out another way to mount it lol.

Are the two sides of the vent actually different? I took the wires out of the far right side of the vent without thinking, and accidently trimmed away the tab that holds the right side of the screen up to the vent hole. They seemed to fit the same on ether side tho, and I like the angle on the passenger side better.

[BlackStealth]

The LCDBC is already scanning the WBO2, Boost and most ECU data (Knock, RPM, etc) at maximum speed internally regardless of what you have selected for ScreenRefresh. Now when you change menus and explore other ECU data (for example fuel trims) this data is not normally scanned at all; so if the ScreenRefresh demands more updates, this is the only time it has an impact. OBD1 and MUT communications is plenty fast so you can ignore any impact this might have. However, 96-97 ECUs only speak OBD2 and "MUT over OBD2" which is very slow, only they are impacted.

Yes you are correct, the driver's side and passenger's side air vents are identical, as I just looked at mine again. The different sized tabs had me thinking it was different for the passenger side, but I was incorrect in that thinking earlier.

[THE_FATTIE]

I had an odd instance today and Im wondering if I have something wrong.

I was on the interstate with the cruse control on going about 70mph. All of the sudden I got an over boost alarm. I have it set to 12psi. I looked at the screen and it read 17.6 psi! I dont know how that can be on 9bs.....

I was on 0.0 duty cycle, aux duty was 0.0, psi start was at 1, and psi end is 2. Do I have something set incorrectly? Or something hooked up wrong? or maybe the blue wire did mess something up...

[BlackStealth]

When you mistakenly had RS232 voltages going into the microprocessor, it was being sent to the Analog to Digital Conversion circuit (ADC). This ADC is responsible for monitoring the voltages on the WBO2 input, Boost pressure sensor input, etc. So it could be slightly damaged. However, in the case it is not damaged, and somehow noise is responsible for the false positive, I've re-written the firmware for the LCDBC. I've now told it to scan the ADC twice as fast, and take an average of the two results. And secondly, it will require two overboost results before it triggers the overboost message in an attempt to avoid a false positive.

Download this zip file, and follow the instructions. On your unit, use FIRMWARE324_20mhz.
http://lcdbc.xp3.biz/updates/UPDATE324.zip

[THE_FATTIE]

When you mistakenly had RS232 voltages going into the microprocessor, it was being sent to the Analog to Digital Conversion circuit (ADC). This ADC is responsible for monitoring the voltages on the WBO2 input, Boost pressure sensor input, etc. So it could be slightly damaged. However, in the case it is not damaged, and somehow noise is responsible for the false positive, I've re-written the firmware for the LCDBC. I've now told it to scan the ADC twice as fast, and take an average of the two results. And secondly, it will require two overboost results before it triggers the overboost message in an attempt to avoid a false positive.

Download this zip file, and follow the instructions. On your unit, use FIRMWARE324_20mhz.
http://lcdbc.xp3.biz/updates/UPDATE324.zip

You are really on the ball with support! If you had a survey you would get all 10's BlackStealth.

Seriously tho, thanks a lot. Ill have to see if I can get this done over the weekend. Stealth had one more hick up today, (not lcdbc related)

Have a great day!

[BlackStealth]

Good news, the latest LCDBC firmware now supports a second WBO2 via Extra Sensor port 1 or 2. When physically hooking it up to the port, you only need to connect the signal wire (0-5v), the unused +5v power wire needs to be taped up as it is not used or needed.

Both WBO2 results are displayed on the main screen, the word "WBO2" is replaced with AFR values from the second WBO2.

Update can be downloaded from here:
http://lcdbc.xp3.biz/updates/UPDATE325.zip

Another bonus is those with 98 or 99 flashable ECUs (or chrome ECUs), the LCDBC can ask the ECU for car speed. This info is now displayed in one of the menus. Also, by knowing car speed, engine rpm, known gearing, and tire size, it can predict which current gear you're using. Currently it's uses Twin Turbo 5speed or 6speed gear ratios (user selectable). There's a new menu called Boost vs Gears. If the "GearsEnabled=On" selection is active, it will allow the user to adjust duty cycle offset per gear. So this means you can have a different boost setting for each gear if so desired. This was a feature request from a user, sorry for making the LCDBC so complex. lol.

Users that do not have a 98-99 ECU, these menus will be hidden from them, to prevent unnecessary clutter.

[Unlogic]

Does it support the 6-speed MR/Euro gearing?