What did you do today to your 3/S?

[anyonebutme]

there's a bolt in the BISS port

[stealthee]

There isn't a screw missing. That is the the backside of the hole. The 10mm bolt is in place of his BISS.

[MDoe8]

I've often wondered how much the rear subframe and front end could be adjusted in a stock application to minimize the angles and help reduce wear on the carrier bearings and DS (perhaps allowing for less vibration from the driveshaft as well, especially if two piece) but is all idle speculation on my part.

Before I move the engine up and back, I was thinking about the same thing. I was planning on rotating the differential, not anything on the subframe itself. My driveshaft phasing was going to be terrible so i was going to look into dropping one end and maybe slotting the other for adjustment. New engine placement makes for a perfect setup though


Also worth noting (not sure how familiar you are in this matter), you do not want a perfectly straight driveshaft. You want equal opposite angles for proper phasing (+x degrees tailshaft, -x degrees diff is an example)

[sergechronos]

Also worth noting (not sure how familiar you are in this matter), you do not want a perfectly straight driveshaft. You want equal opposite angles for proper phasing (+x degrees tailshaft, -x degrees diff is an example)

Very true, however something to reduce the angle a bit might not be terrible. The two cars I've been in with a 2 piece DS seemed to have an awful vibration (which I was assuming was due to drive line angle but may be wrong.). Would be awesome to be able to resolve it, but may also be a manufacturing issue.

[MDoe8]

i believe a 2 piece driveshaft works basically the same. Just think of the front part of the driveshaft essentially an extension to the tailshaft (well, tcase for these cars).
so it would be --\ _ (hows that for a drawing )

[anyonebutme]

IIRC you want more than 4° of angle on each end. Any less and the ujoints wear out and notch up in one spot. So on a 2 piece its like a zigzag, -4, +4, -4, +4. Angle has no bearing on carrier bearings. Honestly I've yet to see a stock one truly wore out. Brand new they are sloppy all to hell so the shaft can dynamically balance. Every time that I've seen people try and stiffen them up ended up with vibration issues.

[MDoe8]

yeah 3-4 is ideal. It's like most things relating to this. There is "optimal" but it will work without optimal just fine. I had all of these things in consideration on my build and i think i got it all proper actually! Only thing is i don't have any positive ackerman. I'm actually going to be parallel which is fine. I originally had a ton of negative and that would have sucked bad.

[sergechronos]

IIRC you want more than 4° of angle on each end. Any less and the ujoints wear out and notch up in one spot. So on a 2 piece its like a zigzag, -4, +4, -4, +4. Angle has no bearing on carrier bearings. Honestly I've yet to see a stock one truly wore out. Brand new they are sloppy all to hell so the shaft can dynamically balance. Every time that I've seen people try and stiffen them up ended up with vibration issues.

yeah 3-4 is ideal. It's like most things relating to this. There is "optimal" but it will work without optimal just fine. I had all of these things in consideration on my build and i think i got it all proper actually! Only thing is i don't have any positive ackerman. I'm actually going to be parallel which is fine. I originally had a ton of negative and that would have sucked bad.

Thanks for the info guys. Guess this is one that'll be best to just leave well enough alone.

Today, I masked off quite a bit of the car to do body work around that quarter panel, the trunk lid, and where I filled holes. Got a couple rounds of priming and sanding (since its coming out of a rattle can with the compressor not working) but there's more to go. Once I get the rest of the build done and can start dry fitting suspension and drive train components, I'll finish off the body mods I have in mind, fix the compressor and actually respray the car. For now, just trying to cover up the rust and get the paint to more or less blend in to what already exists.

[Bloodlust182]

AC clutch pulley bearing is going out and squeaking. Was finally able to locate the AC compressor clutch pulley bearing. Seems a crap-shoot at the parts stores. The only place that even had them around me was autozone. Dont even try telling them the year of the car. You really need to physically take the clutch pulley off the car and measure the bearing with a dial caliper. I have a compressor from a 97 in my 93 and the clutch bearing was the same size as one of my spares from 91(also had a bad bearing as well). Ended up being 40mm ID, 66mm OD, and 24mm thick. Part number is MT2350 for those that want to know. I ended up ordering a bearing off ebay for $21 shipped to my door. Think I'll make a write up to replace it for that contest alan was talking about. I would like to collect more data on which pulleys take which size bearing like SOHC vs DOHC if anyone could provide info that would help out.

[GTOJOE]

Sold a dnp y pipe and my spare alternator to help pay for repairs lol.