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Thread: Bitching about a 4g in a 3000GT

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by anyonebutme View Post
    Carbon doors mean cage with door bars, which means not streetable. Anyone who says different has never driven a caged car on the street. Lexan means not a street car and anyone who says differently never dealt with Lexan on a car before. It's enough of a pain on a race car. Not to mention both options are specifically illegal for street use anywhere in the USA.

    To put in perspective what I consider streetable, I've driven the car shown above daily before, and driven it to MOD and other ~3 hour trips. I still don't call it "streetable".

    3400 is a realistic goal I think, but don't be surprised to have to swiss cheese some things to actually get there. My life got a lot easier once I bought a plasma cutter, and there's a lot of weight in the subframes.
    I completely agree, just stating what I think you would need to do just to *appear* street able. I do not in any way endorse running CF or FG doors without a cage, or using lexan, for a street driven car. My point was more that you would have to make some extreme sacrifices and spend quite a bit to achieve a sub-3k weight. By the point you're done I think that the car would be rather unfun yo drive on the streets anyhow.

    I'd rather just do a DSM if I'm chasing low weight goals honestly. While I'm all for wild and crazy engineering accomplishments, makes more sense to start off with something closer to your goals in this case.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

  2. #202
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    Throw some carpet and a dash inside and it will "look" a lot more streetable lol.
    Project LS3S - '94 Stealth
    - Build thread on 3si http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/mdoe8s-n...72/?highlight=

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4 View Post
    I'm curious to know how low supras and 300zx cars can get down to with basic weight reduction mods.. that should give us a good idea of how heavy were really are relatively.
    Supra's just add power. No need to worry about weight if straight line 1/4- 1mile and street domination is the goal. They also don't have awd, which adds weight and little gain in a straight line, dry surface with tires for intended purpose.
    Last edited by familyMAN; 11-12-2014 at 09:25 PM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  4. #204
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    Yeah I hear you..I'm just curious what a basic bolt-on supra weighs with say a 600whp setup.
    95 TD05 16G VR-4---540whp@24psi
    34XXlbs..

  5. #205
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    Think they're around 3400lbs factory, lowest I've heard of locally is at about 3100 (based on scales a truck stop.)

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    My last stealth was in the 3400lb range and had ac. As mentioned getting under the 3200-3300lb range is where high dollar lightweight parts, and drilling holes in the car comes in. A non sunroof, gutted hatch, crash bar deletes, base model seats, ditching 50lbs of brackets, single shot straight exhaust, and aftermarket wheels gets a 1g stealth around 3400.

    There are so many useless brackets on these cars it crazy. There are already 6 large bolts holding the engine to the trans, those sheet metal braces are supposed to do something? A Dsm with 1000hp has no issues with 3 m10 and 1 m8 fasteners.

  7. #207
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    So in your opinion the transmission stays are useless? Those will be a solid 5lbs. What other brackets are there?

  8. #208
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    Hard to name them all off the top of my head. But, build a car from a bare frame, and they jump out at you. I can fill a large blue Tupperware tub with them on a tear down.

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    the parts i removed for my build in the engine bay probably add up to maybe 10 lbs at most. This does not include a/c, abs, original engine stuff (shifter cables, etc.), and other things of the like. Obivously you can see by the pictures i got to remove a TON more. However, if you keep all luxury items, there isn't a huge amount to be saved. If you were to remove power steering, a/c, and cruise control, then upgrade exhaust, intercooler, radiator, headers, wheels, aws delete, bumpers to aluminum, driveshaft, seats, suspension, misc brackets/bolts etc. you could get the weight down pretty well. Car would not be very street friendly though.




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    Quote Originally Posted by NOMIEZVR4 View Post
    So in your opinion the transmission stays are useless? Those will be a solid 5lbs. What other brackets are there?
    I should have been more clear. I include the deletes I do as useless parts. All solenoids on the firewall and their brackets, clutch vacuum and all its parts, Evap and all its bracketry, brake lines don't need a dozen brackets holding them down, the bs parts between the clutch slave, and master. It's literally hundreds of a couple oz here and there parts, and bolts I always remove. It adds up.

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