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Thread: Tuning my DR750s on Chrome

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    ok, I was not really seeing it until I cut the plug. This looks about right correct?


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    That is about right, damn close from what I can see.

    -Chris

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    In case anyone missed it, pretty glaring comparison of the difference of just two heat ranges in those cuttaway pics.

    Pretty irrelevant to the discussion, but educational to anyone curious of plug construction and heat ranges...


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    you can see the car didn't have much of an oil pressure problem yesterday:

    https://vimeo.com/67973917

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninja Performance View Post
    Plugs for AFR are read down on the ceramic nose where it starts, down in the plug. You need a bright pinpoint light to actually see down there. There should be a thin tan/beige ring at the bottom. The wider and darker (towards black) it gets the richer it is. This is not something you can see by just looking at the outside nose of the plug.

    The Strap will tell you if the heat range of the plug is right. If it changed color in the middle of the strap, it is the proper heat range.

    therefore, this pic of the plugs can not tell us about the afr. Look down into the plug.

    -Chris
    That is one way. However, you don't have to cut the thread of the spark plug and inspect the insulate with high ethanol content fuels. Ethanol engines have a unique plug signature. They leave white jetting trace on the base ring of the spark plug. You can tell the AFR based on the color of the jetting on the base ring and how high the color signature travels up the threads. Its a white looking calcium ring that originates at the straps and spreads like a crescent moon. This is just an f.y.i for guys that go to the track that are reliant on the clock in the pits to get back out on the track and turn laps that don't have time to cut open a spark plug.

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    I did see that whiteness on the strap and spreading to the threads. I thought it was weird, but good to know.

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    Never seen this white calcium looking signature on my plugs so I never looked into it. Good info!

    -Chris

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    if you use this tool:

    Dynomite - a collection of 3S dyno charts

    I think I suspect the issue. I'm not picking on him, but since he is stock shortblock the comparison makes sense. Pick adamvr4's torque and the pick ray's dr750 torque. Then look at mine. Around 3500 even if you account for my vd software reading high ray and I are both making 400-450 torque, while the 16G setup is around 300.

    I think the E85 and instant spool of those turbos is just too much down low and probably bent a rod.

    If anyone wants to run a similar setup I would keep boost low until over 4000 or get a built short block.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    if you use this tool:

    Dynomite - a collection of 3S dyno charts

    I think I suspect the issue. I'm not picking on him, but since he is stock shortblock the comparison makes sense. Pick adamvr4's torque and the pick ray's dr750 torque. Then look at mine. Around 3500 even if you account for my vd software reading high ray and I are both making 400-450 torque, while the 16G setup is around 300.

    I think the E85 and instant spool of those turbos is just too much down low and probably bent a rod.

    If anyone wants to run a similar setup I would keep boost low until over 4000 or get a built short block.
    After seeing 3 engines with similar setups get destroyed under the same conditions, I agree.

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    I would be more inclined to think that you introduced Ethanol into a dirty engine and it started cleaning deposits and circulating them. Knowing now that this isn't the first time this is happened with those turbos I suppose excessive torque could be a possibility. I thought DR750s were okay turbos for a stock engine?

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