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Thread: Got my turbo kit today..

  1. #21
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    But 3sx has a video of the turbos running 8 psi on their website!!

    Hope you get all the issues figured out, Memph.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Memphetic View Post
    One issue that I'm perceiving.... the oil feed ports are 0.1" in diameter. I feel like due to the fact that these turbos are not water cooled, that just doesn't seem like *nearly* enough oil volume to me. I feel like that would cause imminent turbo failure due to heat and coking, and lack of lubrication in general.

    Thoughts....??
    2 AN oil feed lines will work just fine. At idle the oil pump will lift a liter of oil in 1 minute thru that orfice. That's plenty of oil at idle. Oil pressure and flow is rising rate so that increases exponentially. The only thing I see that I might do differently if it were my setup is modify the front motor mount or make my own motor mount to get a better drain angle to the oil pan. I'd also add some fire sleeve with the return line being as close to the downpipe as depicted.

    Have you also increased your oil capacity or upgraded your oil cooler?

  3. #23
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    Looking pretty so far.

    With the front oil feed line, looks like you're loosing a lot of height here


    Make something like this, weld an AN fitting on where the cross is and you can get yourself an extra inch of fall without modifying the sump or the engine mount.


    These are journal bearing turbos right?

  4. #24
    Yep. Journal bearing with no coolant...

    For J.Fast, I don't have increased oil capacity, but I do have a front mount oil cooler.

  5. #25
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    I agree wth box on losing drain height. It looks like you had the front return routing correct in earlier pictures when it was routed behind the downpipe. After reviewing your pictures again it appears all you needed at that point was an Earl's male to female 45° at the oil pan ( clock the fitting on the bottom of the front turbo, also).

    What are the dimensions of your oil cooler and where are you planning on mounting it? What are the manufacturers efficiency ratings for the core? Is it rated for at least 600hp?

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    You guys realize that pic was posted by TSB of his setup, which was an external gated TD05. That is not Memph's engine.

  7. #27
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    TSB is the DR T3 kit.

    Jason

    Silverstone Metallic 94 R2 FD and a Silver 2015 F250 Lariat Ultimate CCSB 6.7PSD
    Sold: Black 99 VR4 and two Pearl White 93 VR4's. Just say NO to FMIC's

  8. #28
    Last edited by Memphetic; 12-21-2012 at 03:08 PM.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Memphetic View Post
    That’s a really clean looking oil cooler install and a nice cooler setup man! I think you’ll need two of those coolers though.

    I'm also running twin 56mm compressor wheels and the same hot side as you and determined the heat rejection rating at these boost levels required to maintain 220F oil temps at wot:

    20psi boost: 1320 Btu/min (x) 60 = 79,200 Btu/hr
    25psi boost: 1550 Btu/min (x) 60 = 93,000 Btu/hr
    30psi boost: 1790 Btu/min (x) 60 = 107,400 Btu/hr
    35psi boost: 2100 Btu/min (x) 60 = 126,000 Btu/hr

    Here are Setrab's Btu rejection ratings and dimensions for their oil coolers: >>> Setrab Engine Oil Coolers | susa <<<

    Depending on the dimensions of your current cooler and passive airflow thru the exchanger you may very well require a 2nd oil cooler since you're not using water in addition to oil to cool your turbos.

    Something else you might consider if you require 2 coolers is plumbing this in line with your radiator instead or using a 2-in-1 NASCAR radiator.


    When I priced out the cost of two Setrab's and fittings for the Btu rejection ratings I'd require I calculated an overall cost of upwards of $800. With an $800 sticker I went this route instead and selected race proven parts: NASCAR® Radiators « C&R Racing

    Oil cooling is a big deal with twin oil cooled turbos and no water cooling. You have the added responsibility to keep those cool as well as the moving parts the engine oil's in direct contact with (crankcase, valve train, bearings, pistons, rods, and etc.). If you boil your oil from your return lines sitting on the downpipes or thin it out from overheating it you run the risk of spinning a bearing.

    As an insurance policy it’s a good idea to overbuild the oil cooling setup because that's a big boy 800+whp setup you've got there. I’m thinking you’re close to being on the skinny branch of Setrab’s Btu efficiency rating’s (likely only 65,000 Btu reduction) if you’re planning on putting an FMIC in front of it. You’ll likely need two when you turn the wick up past 25 psi.

    You‘ve got a nice turbo setup man! 3sx did a good job putting together that kit.

  10. #30
    Nice borther. Looking good!

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