Save your money that you would pour into the car to do a turbo converion ($3k-5k to do it right) and buy a clean vr4 (can be had for $6k ish). Use your base as a DD and the vr4 as a fun weekend car.
what is this "ABS" you speak of?![]()
OK, I'm back. Been busy. Check out "Bottoms up" in the paint and body section to see.
OP
At 70,000 miles, you motor just got broke in. loL. WTF are you doing? Do your 60K service and move on to those items that make a drivers differance.
If you like to drive, More power is NOT going to get it, unless the rest of the car is prepared to do so. Suspenson, brakes, wheels tires, sway bars and such.
WE have members here on there 5th and 6th 60K service. WE don't like to upgrade unless there is a reason too.
Now that being said. Keep in mind that any FWD will have traction issues. A little wheel hope and out the window with your spiders.
I was braking 2 trans a year. WEll every time I drag race that is. I just installed an LSD and ready to try again. Our car is built for road race and auto cross.. So a 1/4 mile car it is not.
We only drag race for the trophies. LOL. Road race for the thrill. Now you have to decide what the Hell you intend to do with the car. You should be preparing your car for it's intended use.
If you like the car and wish to keep it reliable and comfterable, Leave it STOCK. If you wish to put all your money into a car and make it not drivable as I did. Dig up about $8Gs and go for it.
This should put you someware close to what we have done. This car is for assalting black top and catching turbo drivers napping at the wheel. This car is all business. If your looking for a joy ride, this is not it.
PLan your builds wisely. Most do not. Prepare your car for it's intended use. Nothing more, but nothing less. And try not to make it do things that FWD can not. Save your bones and build a TT AWD.
You will be much farther ahead. You can find a none working TT car for around $1200.00 on craigs list most times. That $1200 in you NA will not do shit.
WE will not run a VR4 trans as too heavy for us. Same with VR4 brakes. Too heavy & We don't need-m. Weight is always a concideration. WE out run plenty of TT cars on a road course. THat is do to our
over all package requirements. WE are 1000 lb.s lighter and produce the same power number as stock TT cars. Here's a drawback that I am sure you did not think of, the grand you will spend on tires keeping your car attached to the ground.
Eat a set of those in a season and see if building your car was still a good idea. Once you open the doors to the MONEY PIT, they are hard to close. And if you are thinking "Well I just won't go that crazy with a build", THan do not waist your time and money.
Nothing worse than building a 1/2 assed project that will never be finished.
So for now, Keep your driveline stock and go after those parts of the car that make driving fun.
Good luck to you.
Don't forget to watch the video in my sig.
Nov 9,10,and 11 is TXgathering. Watch for me to brake a few records this year, instead of transmitions. Looking for low 13s, and a dyno run that makes everyone call fowl.
Last edited by GTwizard; 10-26-2012 at 02:02 AM.
Mods
OBX long tube headers, Flow master single 3" in with dual 2.5 outs. VR4 runners with 2 liter plenum, port matched lower intake, stage 3 or better race prepped heads with 1 mm oversize Rev valves, Rev race dual springs and Rev keepers, Delta/HKS 272 cams, 3SX adjustable cam gears, 3.0 Cobra Mustang Throttle body, 3.0 LT1 maft and Maftranslater gen II, Alum. Flywheel, Spec stage 5 clutch, VR4 injectors, Wizard wires, Unorthodox under drive. IPS fuel rails w/adj FPR, Fuel loop, Walboro 255 hot wired, Hot wired single fan. Short shifter, Battery relocate. EBC front slotted rotors, EBC Yellow stuff Pads, 3SX SST brake lines, sway bars, springs.
No IAC, NO AC, NO extra weight, VR4 ECU as of NG2011. Still 10 to 1 slugs, Nitto NT05 Competition Road Course Racing tires. Magan coil overs, 3sx adjustable rear links.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s0I3tnGGmg
1st place fastest NA - Drag - TXG 11 98mph, 1st place quickest NA - drags 14.773, 1st place Dyno - TXG11 229 FWHP & 236 tq, 2ND place Auto cross NA C/S- NG2011, 1ST place NA dyno - TX gathering 2010 - 229 FWHP & 199 tq, 1st place Fastest NA - TXG 2010 - 98.3 trap, 1st Place quickest NA - TXG 2010 - 14.680, 2ND place 1/4 at NG10, best NA time NG10 - 14.932- no traction, 2ND place 1/4 at NG09,
2ND place Autocross NG09
Yep! No problems now.
![]()
For the Trans conversation above.. I just put the 5 speed getrag (25 spline) in my 95 base TT.
The different parts are:
Flywheel (different diameter)
Clutch disk (different splines)
Pressure plate (obviously)
Intermediate axle shaft (One is longer, I think the NA)
Passenger side axle (NA is longer and I had to cut the ABS ring off of an AWD axle to make it work)
Transmission mount (Smaller, actually)
Starter, Shifter cables and slave cylinder were the same.
(Cannot vouch for the '92 cars)
I made 3 welds inside the planetary gearset only to lock the center differential. The VCU will still be good when I put in a new gearset.
You could leave the OS shaft in and just let it spin under the car.. but that's up to you. I put in the block off plate that 3sx sells, had to do a little grinding on it though to make it work.. but it works.
As for keep it NA or go turbo? I went the turbo route because my car was really clean too, and I knew it's history. It was hard to find another clean car for the price at the time, and as I did all the work myself I got out pretty cheap. However, I still didn't skimp.. I wish I had AWD though.. waiting to find a donor car for that though..
I guess if I had to do it again I would have to second Han's advice.. DD the NA and find a vr4 to mod
Last edited by Uniuno; 11-13-2012 at 10:54 AM.
Oh.. Good luck
yep. much easier to start AWD TT, imho.
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