hopefully you are replacing turbos, oil cooler ,and oil feed/return...right?
hopefully you are replacing turbos, oil cooler ,and oil feed/return...right?
Why would I need to replace turbos?
1996 3000GT FWD TT
Follow my build thread here
http://www.socal3s.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=26259
June 30 2012 BBQ/POOL PARTY!!! Sign up guys!!!
http://www.socal3s.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26348
Hey guys, so as I promised...
Video is not WOT but I will be making one soon when I get a safer way to hold the camera.
Mitsubishi 3000GT FWD Twin Turbo 80/90% throttle - YouTube
Here are the pictures I do have from the Instal.
All new OEM parts Bolts, Oil Presure sending units Oil Pump water Pump and so many other little things... Even the darn dip stick is new OEM...
Welded The nut on the motor mount to make for easy access to rear and front motor mounts.
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Last edited by BigBoris; 10-23-2012 at 02:59 AM.
Rebuilt my transmission using used parts from two different transmissions, my 5th gear is from a first gen NA along with my 1st and second gear as where my 3rd and 4th are from a second gen... Had to do some hockey puck swapping and other things but its working with no grinding or kicks. Smoothest trans ever installed in this beast!
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And well the rest is history... So far everything is running great, Seems to be having VSS or VSG problems as my plugs are getting soaked with oil on deceleration. I still need to do a leak down test and a compression test to ensure that rings have sealed good. I dont seem to be getting blow by as I have removed the oil cap and started it once its hot. I can feel the palm of my hand get sucked down when I cover the oil filler with my palm and I seem to be getting great vacuum as well. Mentor believes it to by my VSS or guides as well.
Boy, Boris, that's a lotta frigging work...![]()
Ranked No. #1 in initial quality
Idiots, simply by being idiots, seem capable of achieving randomly bad things that are beyond the imaginings of sensible people.
So you reused your spun bearing turbos....?
I did flush out my oil cooler as well and installed new oil feed/return lines.
Yes, I did. The turbos didn't show any signs of failing oil seals. I flushed the turbos out to ensure that there was no metal shavings and even after the first 500 mile oil change I had no metal shavings in my oil at all. I sifted with a magnet as the oil was draining. Everything seems to be great as well as the oil pressure.
The dent was on the old oil pan.
Last edited by BigBoris; 10-23-2012 at 10:09 PM.

Bearing material will not stick to a magnet as it is made of non-ferrous materials. Mostly composed of Copper, Lead, Tin and some form of Babbitt.
Per Wiki:
Babbitt metal is most commonly used as a thin surface layer in a complex, multi-metal structure, but its original use was as a cast-in-place bulk bearing material. Babbitt metal is characterized by its resistance to galling. Babbitt metal is soft and easily damaged, which suggests that it might be unsuitable for a bearing surface. However, its structure is made up of small hard crystals dispersed in a softer metal, which makes it a metal matrix composite. As the bearing wears, the softer metal erodes somewhat, which creates paths for lubricant between the hard high spots that provide the actual bearing surface. When tin is used as the softer metal, friction causes the tin to melt and function as a lubricant, which protects the bearing from wear when other lubricants are absent.
There are many Babbitt alloys in addition to Babbitt's original. Some common compositions are:
90% tin, 10% copper
89% tin, 7% antimony, 4% copper
80% lead, 15% antimony, 5% tin
76% copper, 24% lead
75% lead, 10% tin
67% copper, 28% tin, 5% lead
Internal combustion motors use Babbitt metal which is primarily tin-based because it can withstand cyclic loading.
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