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Thread: Trailing Arm Removal

  1. #11
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    Thank you for your help anyway "anyonebutme" and "Rakuny"! I'm hoping there is someone out there who will know.

    There are good cars that get you from point A to point B, and then there are great cars, that get you into trouble.

  2. #12
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    IIRC the rears are hubs assemblies like the fronts on AWD. Should be 4 bolts that hold it to the knuckle. Almost nothing to it. Should look similar to this:



    No need to remove the trailing arm.
    '92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - Aug. 2012 COTM

  3. #13
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    It doesn't look like non-turbo cars are setup that way. Would you elaborate why I don't need to remove the trailing arm?

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    If it's a hub assembly, it just comes off with 4 bolts, not a press.

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    Quote Originally Posted by B-Man View Post
    If it's a hub assembly, it just comes off with 4 bolts, not a press.
    He wants to replace a bushing, not the bearings.

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    Ooooh, I should read closer. All that talk of the wheel hub nut, etc threw me off. What bushing are we talking? The front trailing arm bushing?

    EDIT: only one bushing, duh. Still no need to take that nut off. You should be able to do it by just dropping the front down and burning the bushing out.
    Last edited by B-Man; 03-08-2012 at 07:26 PM.

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    I am planning to have it pressed out for me, so I need to remove the arm one way or another. Maybe even replace the wheel bearings considering I have started going past 200,000 miles.

  8. #18
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    This is what I have:

  9. #19
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    how did it go? I'm doing the same now.
    What if I won't be able to get bushing out myself? I'll have to take it all apart, like in that picture above?

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    Sorry for the late reply!
    It went well except for one hitch...,my toe arm on my passenger side is making a clunking/popping sound, which I will ask for help about in a new thread.

    It seems the only way you can remove the arm and take it to a shop (only on a non-turbo), without removing the that large hub nut, is to remove the arm with the bearing assembly, and handbrake cables attached.

    Take off the brake calipers, brake caliper brackets, and brake rotors, and then proceed to loosen the bolts to remove the camber and toe arms, upper arm, trailing arm, and shock absorber at the knuckle. I don't know about the speed sensor since I don't have ABS, but it doesn't look like much of a challenge from here. I also suggest replacing the upper arm bushings at this time as well. If I had started with the knowledge I have now from my experience, I think I could have done the job within 5 days.

    A heads up about that upper arm also. There isn't enough space to fit a 22mm+ socket to undue the upper arm nut at the knuckle. What I did for this is mark a line on the side of the balljoint threads and the nut for a visual cue while torquing it back down since I wasn't able to use a torque wrench.
    Last edited by 3000GTPro; 04-23-2012 at 05:17 PM.

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