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Thread: Trailing Arm Removal

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    Trailing Arm Removal

    I'm looking at how to remove my rear trailing arm so I can have the bushing replace, and I have noticed that I may have to remove the wheel bearing nut in the process. Has anyone successfully removed the assembly without removing the wheel hub assembly? I really don't want to touch that bearing nut if I don't need to.

    edit: This is to be done on a 93 non-turbo
    Last edited by 3000GTPro; 03-07-2012 at 07:39 PM.

    There are good cars that get you from point A to point B, and then there are great cars, that get you into trouble.

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    you don't have to touch that nut to remove the trailing arm. You just have to remove the 4 axle bolts, take the control arms off and the shock obviously. depending on what your mileage is I would say that while you have stuff apart it might actually be a good idea to replace the rear wheel bearings.. they seem to go around 150k

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    Cool.
    I have recently accumulated 202000 mi. on the car and never replaced those bearings yet. What else is recommended?

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    It really depends how far you want to go with it. I would definitely recommend new wheel bearings (there are 2 per trailing arm). and new dust shields for them might be a good idea depending on the condition of yours, the rubber on mine was disintegrated and I wasn't able to remove the bearings without wrecking the 2 metals ones (there are 3 shields per arm). All together the dust shields ran about $50 from Cherry hill.. I don't remember what the bearings were but I think it was just under $50 for all of them.

    this is what I did with mine, hopefully some of the pics will give you an idea of whats involved.
    http://www.3sgto.org/f2/rear-end-rebuild-7469.html

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    step 1. lift car

    step 2. Unbolts trailing arm forward bolt

    step 3. lower front of trailing arm enough for bushing to clear subframe

    step 4. use C press to push out old bushing and press in new one, if you're lucky. If unlucky, a porta-power hydraulic press makes quick work of it.

    Other option is to unbolt it at the balljoints and keep the e-brake assembly with the arm, disconnecting it via the front adjusters under the center console.

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    what is a C press?
    I didn't think about the e-brake cable.. the drivers side would be easy to disconnect under the center console, and the bolt under the tunnel is accessible.. the passenger side is not, the drive shaft carrier bearing blocks the bolt

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    ball joint press. There's larger versions out there.



    the real tool for the job looks like this:

    Last edited by anyonebutme; 03-07-2012 at 07:32 PM.

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    Oh, my car is 93 non-turbo by the way. So there wont be as much that needs to be replaced, right?

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    never done a non-turbo, can't help.

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    ah me either, sorry.

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