Unlogic's Chrome ECU tuning thread

[Ange]

I Think most goes with the ngk coppers. Coppers you have to change more frequently though(like once a year) but a 10 minute job when done once. For your hp Im guessing NGK BCPR7ES. About gap idk. 0.032-0.034"? check other forum discusion about the ngk coppers

some info

Stealth 316 - Spark Plug Change

[Unlogic]

Use the SAE correction from weather data from when you did the pull. It will likely drop the numbers a little bit. I've found virtual dyno to be reasonable if you have a clean log. How's it look with 0 smoothing?

Thanks for the input I'm a total rookie when it comes to virtual dyno.

Here is the same pull SAE corrected for air pressure and temperature:



And this is the same pull again with SAE correction but no smoothing:



I removed the restrictor pill this evening and upped the duty cycle to 85% but already at 78% duty cycle I was getting 19 psi so I'm gonna try and see if 70% works better. I'm gonna try to dial it in around 16-17 psi and then enable the load compensation again to avoid any boost spikes.

[Unlogic]

Hotwire the coil packs as per my DIY thread on GTOOC. It was the best thing I ever did. If you measure voltage directly at the coils they will be up to 1.6V LESS than battery voltage, take into account most alternators drop around 1v on a full WOT run and suddenly your coils are only getting 'around' 11v on WOT.

Throw and test meter on and see for your self . I'm on standard coils, standard copper plugs at standard gap and at 24psi with Meth. Zero miss fires from the day I did the Hotwire .




Sent from my dog n bone

Thanks!

I'm gonna have to look into this, sounds like something that's easy to test.

[CoopKill]

New plugs, drop the gap to .026 -.028 you should be good especially if adding voltage to the coils.. May pull more hp out of her. I hate the feeling of blowout, scares me everytime.

[DocWalt]

Looks decently smooth with 0 smoothing. better than thing I get from my GTI anyway! The SAE stuff didn't make a huge difference, neat.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I should probably mention that I haven't touched a single cell in the stock fuel and timing maps so far. I've done all the fine tuning using the VE table and it seems to work great so far.

So, even if you want to command leaner than the stock fuel map you are changing the ve table? I don't know why anyone would do that and have a meaningless fuel table. Change the ve table enough to get your logged afr's to match the fuel map and then you can set the fuel map to the actual afr you want.

[Unlogic]

So, even if you want to command leaner than the stock fuel map you are changing the ve table? I don't know why anyone would do that and have a meaningless fuel table. Change the ve table enough to get your logged afr's to match the fuel map and then you can set the fuel map to the actual afr you want.

My logged AFR values match those set in the fuel map almost perfectly and I'm running stock rich too as you can see in the graphs. At the end of my pull's my AFR values falls to around 10.1 but I'm gonna try and lean it out to maybe 10.4 and see if it helps with my spark blowout problems before I investigate that any further.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Right, that's my point. Change the fuel map if you don't want to run stock rich.

10.1 logged usually means its pig rich in the nines, the gauge is just pegged.

[Unlogic]

According to the spec the AEM 30-2310 inline wideband sensor I'm using goes as low as 8.5 but the lowest value I've logged so far is 9.4 when I was running too high fuel pressure.

I'm gonna try running the car a little leaner now. If that doesn't cure the ignition blowouts I'll hotwire the coils tomorrow.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I'm using that wide and as well and have never logged under 10. The cars will breakup under 10 or so.