Reducing brake drag

**green-lantern** · 12-21-2014, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by anyonebutme

Much safer and easier to undo the 4 bolts holding the axle on, then turn it by hand.

How is that easier than driving down the road a mile? other than having to buy the temp gun? lol It's not dangerous ether.

**anyonebutme** · 12-21-2014, 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by green-lantern

How is that easier than driving down the road a mile? other than having to buy the temp gun? lol It's not dangerous ether.

I can just imagine someone ripping the ebrake handle at 60MPH.......then saying "you told be to", not to mention that in addition to buying a temp gun, getting readings from a shiny surface requires the knowledge that you're actually taking the reading of what it's reflecting, so you'd have to shoot it dead straight and really close. And using the e-brake at all will result in heating the rear brake rotor.

Takes like 10 minutes max to jack up the rear of the car and remove a few bolts, then turn the wheel. It takes me longer than that to get to a road I can even get to 60 MPH on and then stop without brakes...........because city.

**green-lantern** · 12-21-2014, 11:03 PM

Originally Posted by anyonebutme

I can just imagine someone ripping the ebrake handle at 60MPH.......then saying "you told be to", not to mention that in addition to buying a temp gun, getting readings from a shiny surface requires the knowledge that you're actually taking the reading of what it's reflecting, so you'd have to shoot it dead straight and really close. And using the e-brake at all will result in heating the rear brake rotor.

Takes like 10 minutes max to jack up the rear of the car and remove a few bolts, then turn the wheel. It takes me longer than that to get to a road I can even get to 60 MPH on and then stop without brakes...........because city.

Really? lol, there is more of a chance of the car falling on him than "ripping" the e-brake up and crashing.

It's BS you can't get a good reading with a temp gun BTW.

Not to mention you still wont feel a slight hang up spinning the wheel compared to checking temps. If you are unbolting the axles you will need to remove the axle boots also or just remove them all together.

Disclaimer:
OP, if you have a temp gun or know somebody that owns one that you can't borrow please don't "rip" the e-brake when performing this test. It doesn't really hurt to use the normal brakes.

Also if you are unbolting shit under the car please use jack stands because people that rip e-brakes at 60 don't normally use jackstands.

**R/T93** · 12-21-2014, 11:21 PM

Your temp gun must have adjustable emmisitivity to be able to measure the reflective surface. You basic 40-100$ gun from home Depot won't have it.
A regular gun might tell you it's colder or hotter side to side but the actual # wouldn't be accurate.

**anyonebutme** · 12-22-2014, 01:05 AM

Originally Posted by green-lantern

If you are unbolting the axles you will need to remove the axle boots also or just remove them all together.

No, you don't. They unbolt from the outside in the rear, so there is no need to remove anything except 4 bolts per side to check. Remember he's concerned about the rears not spinning, 4 bolts per side, you don't even have to pull them off the stubaxle. It's a moot point anyways as I was just trying to make the point that what he is feeling is in fact the rear diff's LS unit. Since he already stated that his wheels are off the car I assumed his car is already jacked up and standed. Usually for me that precluded me from doing any tests on the road.

I think we are on different wavelengths.

**green-lantern** · 12-22-2014, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by R/T93

Your temp gun must have adjustable emmisitivity to be able to measure the reflective surface. You basic 40-100$ gun from home Depot won't have it.
A regular gun might tell you it's colder or hotter side to side but the actual # wouldn't be accurate.

lol trust me it works fine. I can bake a rotor and show you if you want. You are mainly just looking for a variance anyway. you don't need to point at the shiny part if you don't want to. I've done it several times.

Originally Posted by anyonebutme

No, you don't. They unbolt from the outside in the rear, so there is no need to remove anything except 4 bolts per side to check. Remember he's concerned about the rears not spinning, 4 bolts per side, you don't even have to pull them off the stubaxle. It's a moot point anyways as I was just trying to make the point that what he is feeling is in fact the rear diff's LS unit. Since he already stated that his wheels are off the car I assumed his car is already jacked up and standed. Usually for me that precluded me from doing any tests on the road.

I think we are on different wavelengths.

That's cool, I was just defending that it's not hard or unsafe.