Back To Basics: Budget Rebuild

[sergechronos]

Spent part of the weekend with the Ninja and went through my transmission..
Gears 1 and 2 are toast and need replaced.
3rd gear is reusable if I want to do a budget rebuild, but shouldn't be speed shifting it. So going to replace it.
5th gear shows excessive wear for being 5th gear, but I will probably leave it be unless I can get a replacement for practically nothing considering I will never be redline shifting into 5th.
2nd synchro set can be used for 1st, and I'm going to just get a new synchro set for 2nd.
3rd and 4th are the old style brass and need replaced as they are damaged.
5th synchro is pretty good, I think reverse is alright as well.
1/2 hub & slider are toast, 3/4 hub & slider are very rough on the 3 side so going to replace that as well.
Vcu is toast, but I have a SCE center to put in instead. Would've been nice if it was working so I could've sold it to offset some of the cost.
End case was extremely damaged at some point and is now more weld than case so it needs to be replaced as well.

Throw in the Quaife front and Flexor input spool I'm wanting as well, likely looking at about 3-4k for the rebuild. Would like to have it done in time for NG, but don't want to skimp on anything just to make it. If I can't make NG, I'll likely wait and do Broomfields billet transfer case housing as well.

[Unlogic]

Sounds like that transmission needs a lot of love. Wouldn't i be cheaper to pickup another 5-speed transmission in better condition and use that as a base instead?

I have a spare transmission that I use only for spares since spares are so expensive and hard to come by.

[sergechronos]

Sounds like that transmission needs a lot of love. Wouldn't i be cheaper to pickup another 5-speed transmission in better condition and use that as a base instead?

I have a spare transmission that I use only for spares since spares are so expensive and hard to come by.

Honestly unsure. I've torn down 3 parts trannies with Chris, and 3 customer trannies, and most were about the same.

In general, you can count on Reverse and 2nd gear being trashed at a minimum. Most of the time 1st gear is worn as well (but less of an issue since you don't generally down shift into 1st at speed.) 3rd is about 50/50 chance of being gone and the VCU is about the same. Its relatively uncommon to find those in good shape.

I'm going to wait and see what the cost is, if its 3k plus before Quaife and Flexor input spool, may roll the dice on another trans and see what I can get out of it. I'd need to get a good VCU ( to resell) a good 3rd and a good 3/4 slider just to have a chance at breaking even on cost.

Leaning towards new 2nd, and a used 1st and 3rd gear. New 1/2 hub&slider, good used 3/4 hub&slider and all new synchros. Should be good for a long time to come, may even splurge for new 3rd gear.

[green-lantern]

Spent part of the weekend with the Ninja and went through my transmission..
Gears 1 and 2 are toast and need replaced.
3rd gear is reusable if I want to do a budget rebuild, but shouldn't be speed shifting it. So going to replace it.
5th gear shows excessive wear for being 5th gear, but I will probably leave it be unless I can get a replacement for practically nothing considering I will never be redline shifting into 5th.
2nd synchro set can be used for 1st, and I'm going to just get a new synchro set for 2nd.
3rd and 4th are the old style brass and need replaced as they are damaged.
5th synchro is pretty good, I think reverse is alright as well.
1/2 hub & slider are toast, 3/4 hub & slider are very rough on the 3 side so going to replace that as well.
Vcu is toast, but I have a SCE center to put in instead. Would've been nice if it was working so I could've sold it to offset some of the cost.
End case was extremely damaged at some point and is now more weld than case so it needs to be replaced as well.

Throw in the Quaife front and Flexor input spool I'm wanting as well, likely looking at about 3-4k for the rebuild. Would like to have it done in time for NG, but don't want to skimp on anything just to make it. If I can't make NG, I'll likely wait and do Broomfields billet transfer case housing as well.

Bummer

[sergechronos]

A bit. Pricing out parts (using both new and used) on some vendors websites puts the total at about 2000-2400, plus the Quaife and Flexor. So remains to be seen just what the cost will be through Chris.

[sergechronos]

Gas tank has been grinded down and coated, and while not pictured, the area where it mounts under the car has as well. Needs a 2nd coat plus the top coat, but already looks miles better. Got several samples of GXL and TXL wire in, going to compare sizes, measure ODs and see how much bigger it'll make the harnesses to rewire the car as such.

Spent some time working on wirewheeling the under side of the car..Suffice to say, it's a mess. Even with cover alls and a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cup brush, it's a pain and gets everywhere. And of course, trying to work with an angle grinder for that long makes your hands go numb, always worrisome when you're working with a grinder in front of your face. My face shield is in desperate need of replacement since I can't see for shit through it. Glasses keep me from being able to just wear goggles and it also makes wearing a dust mask a pain in the ass since it forever fogs up my glasses.

[familyMAN]

Wow! Good work!!

[CoreyB]

Looks really good, nice job.

[sergechronos]

Wow! Good work!!

Looks really good, nice job.

Much obliged gents. So far, really digging the silver undercoat. Goes on pretty well, fills in rusted areas well, adhesion is good. I can hit it with a hammer and barely scratch it. The top coat I am still on the fence about. Goes down like an epoxy, but is almost kind of latex/rubbery. Sandpaper doesn't do much to it.

[sergechronos]

Planning out the wire tuck and hat not, anybody know what kind of crimper I'd need for the harness and ECU pins? I'm assuming a W type crimper? Or a metripak?