tearing apart engine.

[shmoo]

how's it going guys?

i'm in the process of tearing this motor apart. thus far, i've gotten the heads off, and have been advised to not take the valves or valve springs out, at least not until i take the whole thing to a machine shop.

i'm going to pick up an engine stand shortly, and take the oil pan off, but i'm pretty clueless after that.

i know to label baggies/boxes, as that's what i've done thus far, but i need more advice.

thanks!

_isiah

[futurevr4man]

what do you need advice on? what are you doing?

[sketch]

what are you looking for advice on? so far it looks like you're on the right track - bag & tag everything you take off/out. got any specifics you need pointers on?

[shmoo]

it's just thaT i'm about to start with the crank, and i haven't a clue what it even looks like down there. is there anything that i shouldn't be taking off? i dunno, let me get the oil pan off first, and i'll start posting some pictures,

thanks!

_isiah

[shmoo]

what do you need advice on? what are you doing?

i'm just going to be rebuilding the engine. possibly to stock specs, possibly not. likely with at least a forged crank.

what do y'all think.. is it reasonable to upgrade rods, and or pistons, and nothing in the head? how about vice versa. i think i'm down to upgrade some of the internals, but i don't think i want to afford nearly all of them..

_isiah

[Ange]

i'm just going to be rebuilding the engine. possibly to stock specs, possibly not. likely with at least a forged crank.

what do y'all think.. is it reasonable to upgrade rods, and or pistons, and nothing in the head? how about vice versa. i think i'm down to upgrade some of the internals, but i don't think i want to afford nearly all of them..

_isiah

I think stock rods and pistons are a weaker link than the crank. Just saying..

[sketch]

what are your goals with the build?

[Boost4VR4]

how's it going guys?

i'm in the process of tearing this motor apart. thus far, i've gotten the heads off, and have been advised to not take the valves or valve springs out, at least not until i take the whole thing to a machine shop.

i'm going to pick up an engine stand shortly, and take the oil pan off, but i'm pretty clueless after that.

i know to label baggies/boxes, as that's what i've done thus far, but i need more advice.

thanks!

_isiah

If you want some visuals on the engine , take a look at my Build Thread.

It's in the NA Forced Induction section and it's called Big Single Build. Lots of a good photos on throughout the whole thread.

[shmoo]

I think stock rods and pistons are a weaker link than the crank. Just saying..

o really? being that the crank is what it all attaches to, i figured it was the most important. i have a ton of research to do. like what stock bore pistons people are going with? attaching them to stock rods?

what are your goals with the build?

reliable, a little more pep in the step, so i can stop considering bolt ons.

If you want some visuals on the engine , take a look at my Build Thread.

It's in the NA Forced Induction section and it's called Big Single Build. Lots of a good photos on throughout the whole thread.

i'll check it out man, thanks

_isiah

[sergechronos]

I'd upgrade the crank before the pistons and rods. A forged crank can take as much abuse as you can throw at it, the stock rods are good to bout 600awtq, and the stock pistons are good to around the 500awtq number on pump. That said, forging the bottom end is better all done in one shot IMO. The block has to be bored for forged pistons, even if stock size (because the forged pistons will expand more than the stock ones) and either way you're going to have to hone. Better to only have to do that stuff once.

Upgrading the heads and cams is nice, but not super necessary (doesn't hurt though) since we're forced induction. You can make quite a bit of power with the stock heads (which already flow pretty well anyhow) and the springs and retainers are good enough for 264 cams if you want to go that route (which is about as far as you'd want to take a daily driver anyhow.) 2k worth of heads is just about enough to forge the bottom end, and by the time you're running enough boost for the upgraded heads to make a difference, you're likely near the limit of what the stock internals will take.

To put it another way: upgraded heads with stock internals is more power, but less room for error with the tune and a lower overhead before you reach the limit. And the opposite is true for forged internals and stock heads, you'd make less power for the money spent, but you've got a greater margin for error and can go much farther before you reach the limit of the parts.