CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread [Pic Heavy]

[CoopKill]

Sitting drilled head bolt on one side, and small pieces o cardboard on the other, and she got black plastic jammies.

I did however figure out what scored the thrust bearing. It is in direct line with the edge of the bearing surface on the crank. Not sure if that edge is supposed to be relieved, or not, but will be having a conversation about it.

[kywhitelightning]

If you need some NEW main bolts I have an OE set. $60 shipped.

I opted for ARP's for the reason Forrest already mentioned so, the OE's are extra. I also got another set with the new bare block I just got.

Jeff

[TurboSinceBirth]

I wouldn't go with aftermarket mains. It's not needed. Even if you were to upgrade to ARP, CA625, or A1 you'd have to get it line bored for the higher ~100 ft-lb torque rating because it'll distort the crank bores.

[CoopKill]

Just got off the phone with the machine shop. It appears I am 1-2 weeks out still. Since he is supposedly cutting me a break I want not to push him.

So that get out of jail free card you hold Mr. Nut will have to be pocketed a bit longer if used for this.

Question, I forgot to jot the piston size down on Ray's Ross pistons. Does the block need boring for them to go in? Reason I ask is I am adding up the coin drop before it is demanded.

I will be taking this delay as an opportunity to rewire, wire in other gadgets that need to be installed/reinstalled. Might get froggy, and rip the front suspension apart to do all the bushings as well.

If anyone knows on the pistons let me know if you would.

[kywhitelightning]

I wouldn't go with aftermarket mains. It's not needed. Even if you were to upgrade to ARP, CA625, or A1 you'd have to get it line bored for the higher ~100 ft-lb torque rating because it'll distort the crank bores.

Have you seen this for yourself or are regurgitating info from a recent episode of a popular TV show? I have spoke with Ray about this and he said he hasn't had an issue. I will be testing this but, just curious if you have ran into this.

Coop, don't ever bore until the machinist has the pistons in hand. It's like different branded jeans; they are all tagged 34 inch waiste but, no two brands fit the same.

Jeff

[Jimvr4]

As a data point I used stock bores with a re-hone and Ray made stock sized Ross pistons so no boring was needed.

[CoopKill]

Yes all the parts are in the machinist hands with data sheet. The question was for my wallet planning. Trying to see if sce diff is in my non_budget.

Sent from the Man Cave!

*\( ^o^ )/*

[RealMcCoy]

Ray can order them in most any size... The typical or most common is 3.620", which is almost .040" oversize. If you didn't specifically discuss a custom size, or large overbore, that's most likely what you have.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I'm not sure he does that. I measure my bores and they were only 91.5mm on my stroker, which suggests a .015 overbore.

[TurboSinceBirth]

Have you seen this for yourself or are regurgitating info from a recent episode of a popular TV show? I have spoke with Ray about this and he said he hasn't had an issue. I will be testing this but, just curious if you have ran into this.

Coop, don't ever bore until the machinist has the pistons in hand. It's like different branded jeans; they are all tagged 34 inch waiste but, no two brands fit the same.

Jeff

Ray was the one that did it to my Pampena stroker 4 years ago. He was the one that recommended it for torquing the studs more than stock. It was only a few ten thousandths out. He's probably built hundreds of motors if not more since then. If he says we can get away with 625+, A1, etc. studs at stock torque values and still get all of the benefits of the stronger tensile strength of the bolts, then that means less work on our motors. I'll have to talk to him again later this year if I go through with another engine upgrade.