AEM EMS Banter Thread

[GTOJOE]

What sort of life span are people getting out of an O2 sensor? I bought an NGK AFX and the documentation states that once the tuning is completed to remove it as leaving the sensor in the exhaust flow while not powered up will drastically reduce the life of the sensor. They recommend if leaving it inplace that it be actually running. Which then means it will also die after a while? are are people doing about it?

[mb3000]

I don't know why you would turn the O2 sensor off?

[GTOJOE]

Talking about a wideband O2 If that makes any difference. I'm worried that after some time it will begin to lose accuracy and start giving incorrect results. Or is that a myth?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[fastfalcon94]

I have my stock o2 sensors deleted and an aem wideband (bosch) sensor after the Y in my sensor. I have had the same sensor for about 4 years now and it still seems to work. I mean you know what your car should idle at once warmed up (14.7). So if you sensor starting acting up I would imagine you'd notice it because your idle wouldn't be reading right. All it does is output a 0-5v signal. Personally I wouldn't remove it or unhook it. It's an important safety gauge to have in yoru car. If the o2 sensor doesn't last long, get something different like an aem wideband.

I started messing with launch control and NLTS today. I read around on the evo forums. For launch control I set up my 2step to be 4200 rpms and activated under 10mph. I had some trouble setting up NLTS though. The documentation for aem's switches is wrong. Even though farnorthracing (Far North Racing - Stealth - Corrected Pinout for the AEM EMS) says switch 4 was "verified" it did not work. Switch 3 did work. When logging though it shows as ON. When I push the clutch in it shows as OFF. I think the on/off needs to somehow be reversed, but idk. It was too late to be reving my engine in the driveway trying to test it.

Edit: I tested it today in the driveway and it seems to work I didn't notice but there is actually a 3step channel on the left being logged. When the clutch is pushed that channel becomes active. Also the 2step overrides the 3step so when launching it will use the correct rpm points. I have not driven the car yet but I will test out NLTS. Just from using it in the driveway though it sounds much better than my wotbox. It bounces off the 2nd rev limiter a lot faster than a wotbox does cutting just the ignition. Plus it doesn't build up fuel since it cuts both.

[Ninja Performance]

I am running over my 3.5 bar map sensor. Not going to spend the money on a new 5 bar and go thru the hassle of making all the map adjustments for it.

So, I changed the MAX voltage to 4.65volts, Max is supposed to be 4.5 so it now should not be able to max out.

Trouble was, trying to run more than 35.12psi, no matter what you do you can't make Fuel cut any higher than the MAP sensor max which is 35.12. So I run 36psi and hit my Fuel Cut Load cut off.

Now, even if I run 37psi, the sensor should max out at 4.5 volts, but the AEM thinks 35.12psi is 4.65 volts and therefore shouldn't hit max.

It did skew my fuel a tad, runs a little leaner cause now the AEM thinks I am running less boost than it is, but only a smidgen.

-Chris

[GTOJOE]

I have my stock o2 sensors deleted and an aem wideband (bosch) sensor after the Y in my sensor. I have had the same sensor for about 4 years now and it still seems to work. I mean you know what your car should idle at once warmed up (14.7). So if you sensor starting acting up I would imagine you'd notice it because your idle wouldn't be reading right. All it does is output a 0-5v signal. Personally I wouldn't remove it or unhook it. It's an important safety gauge to have in yoru car. If the o2 sensor doesn't last long, get something different like an aem wideband.

Good to know. I assume that when they fail or start failing they will just start to slowly loose accuracy. But if yours has been stable for 4 years then I think that's a more than acceptable life span considering a new sensor is under $100.

[Memphetic]

Has anyone ever ran into the issue where Quick Trim in AEMTuner sets the cell to zero, regardless of anything?

EDIT: If you are having this problem, it is because you chose the AEMPro style percentage change (i.e. entering 2.5 means a 102.5% change). This will cause AEMTuner to multiply the cell by, say, 2.5% if your O2 feedback is set at that instead of 102.5%, thusly dropping the value significantly.

[fastfalcon94]

I've been working on a guide for aem using all the info I pulled in from offline. Here it is so far. I'd appreciate any feedback as I'm not certified or anything when it comes to tuning. It was just a pain to get everything in AEM setup, so I'm hoping the guide will make it easier for other people. I couldn't find any complete guides out there, so I had to piece things together from multiple forums. It's not 100% complete yet. I still need to figure out the best way to tweak the startup tables.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bzs3...it?usp=sharing

I also got my fuel all tweaked and have our local dyno rented for half a day in early july so I can adjust timing and see what power I'm making with the dr750s at 27-28psi. It's not a dynojet or mustang dyno. Here's the website.

AWD Dyno | VEMS US

Here's a pic of my suby on it last year.

[Nick_T]

Hi Guys ,reviving this thread ....Any updates ? trying to get timing info as mine is fluttering bad at low revs in the cruise at 2 to 3 k , i have the AEM v2 and looking to use the timing map in the thread to see if it will help running 13T,s CX front mount just running 0.6 bar for safety
Nick

[mb3000]

I never got around to trying the timing map, but I would love to hear your feedback. Be mindful of the RPM points though, if yours are different that it wouldn't be as easy as copy/paste.

Made myself an EMS version of the stock timing map using Greg's posted high octane timing map.