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Thread: Midwest Turbo - What is up?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigchamp View Post
    The post implied that the nut was indeed tightening up and exceeding the torque value of the shaft and then snapping. not coming undone. Welding the nut to the shaft would prevent this.
    Jeff
    and how would you know the nut was tightening on a blown up turbo with no paint marks or anything denoting where the nut was?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    and how would you know the nut was tightening on a blown up turbo with no paint marks or anything denoting where the nut was?
    Don't ask me Matey! Lol
    I was just posting a solution to what was said that was happening
    Read the whole thread
    Jeff

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    and how would you know the nut was tightening on a blown up turbo with no paint marks or anything denoting where the nut was?
    So far that's the only theory. It's either that or the nut came loose first because they were both separated when the turbo blew. The nut and shaft were not together. Given the threads are clean on the outside edge of the shaft, the other end was sheared, and the really deep grooves on the compressor wheel in the same direction of the compressor nut tightening down there isn't evidence pointing to something different. Given the fact that the turbo could have surged what's going to happen to a wheel spinning 160k rpms that suddenly slows down while the shaft is still trying to spin? We're only trying to overcome 3-4 ft/lbs at most which isn't much. It wouldn't be hard to believe the compressor wheel could spin on the shaft.

    I really think it was surge/stall from the BOV. I ran up to 31.6 with the Greddy RS and plenty of 28 psi runs before this but given the circumstances and cross platform experiences I think it was more to blame. I'm one of the very few to push TD04s this hard and the others that have run over 30 psi you can count on one hand. They haven't had issues snapping shafts yet. I plan to run a bigger Tial QR and probably go for 35 psi if there's any hp gains above 30 psi.
    Last edited by TurboSinceBirth; 05-28-2013 at 07:27 PM.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

  4. #34
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    Oh nice, guess what valve I have... lol I don't think the 11 blade will make much past 28-30psi anyway. We shall see. I may have to invest in a Tial before I push it up there.

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    Might as well run two of them at this point.

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    Surging from to small of a bov doesn't break shafts, wot surge from a turbo spooling to fast under load can break shafts. To me honestly it looks like an inferior material was used for the shaft, and it snapped. The first china 16g copies had this same issue. That is why the newer china 16gs use t3 spec bearings, they increased the shaft size to make up for junk metal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donniekak View Post
    Surging from to small of a bov doesn't break shafts, wot surge from a turbo spooling to fast under load can break shafts. To me honestly it looks like an inferior material was used for the shaft, and it snapped. The first china 16g copies had this same issue. That is why the newer china 16gs use t3 spec bearings, they increased the shaft size to make up for junk metal.
    Why have other platforms proven compressor surge from BOVs has caused failure then when the surge is bad enough? I'm not ruling out the material but at the same time I can't exactly point fingers to get me much of anywhere since it'll undoubtedly be all out of pocket.

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    Dan from Midwest Turbo called me today and we had a long conversation.

    Sadly they haven't made the TD05 Stage4 turbo for almost a year. The market wasn't there (high cost) and then the supplier of the wheels stopped. So MTC doesn't have anything for me.

    Trying to figure out if FP Greens (the new design) would be better than the PTE 5027s I have. Talking with them about that.

    -Chris

  9. #39
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    And actually, All this is in an effort to find a better turbo setup for my car. My PTE 5027s are great, and make huge power. But by the time they are spooled 5500-6000 36psi, the heads and cams are done and so my power curve goes UP and right back down.

    So I need a set of turbos that will spool a good big faster without loosing too much top end. Oh and a TD05 turbine housing.
    Or I need to find a T3/4 manifold setup.

    -Chris

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninja Performance View Post
    Dan from Midwest Turbo called me today and we had a long conversation.

    Sadly they haven't made the TD05 Stage4 turbo for almost a year. The market wasn't there (high cost) and then the supplier of the wheels stopped. So MTC doesn't have anything for me.
    Interesting. In the initial hype threads they stated they partnered with MAP to get these wheels sourced and even used an evo dyno using a Map ef2 as marketing. MAP is still selling the EF2, 3 and 4; I believe the EF3 should have the identical compressor as the MTC stage 3 and 4, or damn close.



    I still think the FP Greens will be great for you. Should out spool your 5027's plus make as much power (if not more since they are rated a hair higher lb/min). Only $999 right now. I'm sure Mike at FP can help you pick the right turbo though.
    Last edited by familyMAN; 05-30-2013 at 12:43 AM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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